High Tech Issues V8
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | V8- [details] |
| FA: | Dave G & Luke P |
| Submitted By: | BDalhaus on Apr 8, 2008 |
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Description Big moves on crimps lead into a gaston, a pocket, then a jug before topping out a ways off the deck. Like the sound of it? This problem is rarely touched and probably a whole grade harder than it's neighbor, Maxim. Sit start as for Maxim on the flake and the crimp, make a big move up and left to the next crimp, then figure out how to get into the giant gaston up and left (look for a hidden right hand crimp up high). Using the gaston and a sidepull to the right of it, work your feet and cross up to the pocket before grabbing the horn of Maxim. Top it out. Techy, tricky, and really good.
Location On the Hemlock Boulder (Big & Tall aka Hilltop), this problem starts the same as Maxim. Downclimb to the right of the problem.
Protection Pads & spotters
| Comments on High Tech Issues |
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By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 5, 2009
rating: V8
| I like this problem. I am suprised it doesn't get more attetention. And it isn't even in the book. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Feb 13, 2010
rating: V8
| Really good. Maybe better than Maxim. |
By chris deulen
Feb 15, 2010
rating: V7+
| I agree. Needs more traffic, and people w/ cojones. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Feb 15, 2010
rating: V8
| Touche. |
By Christian Prellwitz
Sep 10, 2012
| Bryce (and others!)--
Where's this alleged 'hidden right hand crimp'? I match on the small sharp crimp (up and left from the start), and step up into the gaston with the left. Then right hand to the sidepull next to it. Then head to the pocket. Where's the crimp. I'd love to use it!
Any other beta hints/suggestions? |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 12, 2012
| Calling it a crimp is probably generous as it's about as thick as a credit card, however it does take considerable difficulty out of getting to the gaston because it gets you up level with it. It's hidden because it's so f***ing small, and I think I get three fingers on it. Pretty sure it's at about the same height as the gaston and three feet to the right, kind of near the bottom of the subtle scoop feature.
Glad someone is getting on this problem again... |
By Christian Prellwitz
Sep 12, 2012
| Thanks for the info, Bryce. I'll see if I can find it!
I wasn't having a hard time getting to the gaston and into the sidepull just right of it. I just couldn't figure out something good to do with my feet or how best to get situated to move off these holds to the pocket. Hopefully the crimp will help get me in a better position...
This line is beautiful and my favorite style of climbing. It's a tad sharp and tweaky, but climbs better (and less contrived) than Maxim, in my opinion. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V8
| I get the gaston & sidepul, do some hard footwork to get my right foot up to the sharp crimp you move to the gaston from, and fire for the pocket. Then I fall. |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 13, 2012
| The crimp won't help. I seem to remember something about having my right foot on the good crimp, backstepping a nub with my left foot, dropping my left hip into the wall, and hoping I didn't blow off and splatter myself across Gadgetry while crossing up to the pocket. That's where the cajones came in. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V8
| You cross? Damn. Hardcore. I'd recommend going right hand and then crossing to the good incut flake thing. |
By Christian Prellwitz
Sep 13, 2012
| Bryce and Julian--
Thanks for the info. Crossing through to the pocket is impressive! A thrutchy right hand to the pocket is what I've been trying, though I haven't given this problem much of a time investment yet.
I'm psyched to actually give it the attention and effort it deserves and see if I can piece it together. It's a great line.
Thanks for the beta help!
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