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Routes in 5. Devonshire
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Cream on My Scone T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hung Like Benedict T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek 2015 |
| Page Views: | 599 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Interesting sequence. If only it were longer.
Start on a sloping ledge about fifteen feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. Or could use the same start as the route to the left, but go farther right along the right edge of the slab.
Up through the broken cracks to the top.
Variation easier+interesting: About halfway up, make a wide step right.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Start on a sloping ledge about fifteen feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. Or could use the same start as the route to the left, but go farther right along the right edge of the slab.
Up through the broken cracks to the top.
Variation easier+interesting: About halfway up, make a wide step right.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Obvious broken crack system on the right (northeast) wall of the Devonshire slab. Can start on a sloping ledge about twenty feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. See Routes photo.
Protection
Top-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
This anchor can be shared with the next route to the left, and perhaps (with a directional) shared with the Devonshire Pillar route.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is unknown.
This anchor can be shared with the next route to the left, and perhaps (with a directional) shared with the Devonshire Pillar route.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is unknown.
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