|Old New Place
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A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.
When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 6 on the Old New Place route topo photo.
Small to medium nuts and cams down low. Small nuts are nice to protect the moves right around the roof and then a bigger cam (#2 BD) or two above to the top. Bolt anchor at top to preserve the trees.
BETA PHOTO: High roof right.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
An alternate start to this climb begins about 6' to the right of the usual start under the high roof; it's a flared corner to a finger crack to the easier cracks on the arete. It's about 5.11-, and appears to have just enough pro down low to make it reasonably leadable (though I haven't tried to lead it yet).
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Another fun, balancy variation on this climb is to start as for the Unknown 5.10a to its right (Route 7 in the topo, further right then the variation George mentioned) and move left onto the arete instead of making Route 7's strange step out right. Then follow "High Roof Right" to the top. This variation appeared to protect well with small nuts and cams, but I didn't lead it.