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 ADVANCED
Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

High Roof Right 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Entering the interesting arete climbing of High Ro...

Description 

A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.


Location 

When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 6 on the Old New Place route topo photo.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams down low. Small nuts are nice to protect the moves right around the roof and then a bigger cam (#2 BD) or two above to the top. Bolt anchor at top to preserve the trees.



Photos of High Roof Right Slideshow Add Photo
High roof right.
BETA PHOTO: High roof right.
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An alternate start to this climb begins about 6' to the right of the usual start under the high roof; it's a flared corner to a finger crack to the easier cracks on the arete. It's about 5.11-, and appears to have just enough pro down low to make it reasonably leadable (though I haven't tried to lead it yet).

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Another fun, balancy variation on this climb is to start as for the Unknown 5.10a to its right (Route 7 in the topo, further right then the variation George mentioned) and move left onto the arete instead of making Route 7's strange step out right. Then follow "High Roof Right" to the top. This variation appeared to protect well with small nuts and cams, but I didn't lead it.