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Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

High Roof Left 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: This is high roof left. You start slightly to the ...


Start below the obvious high roof. The reachy start, shared with the next climb to the right, probably has the hardest moves on the route. Follow steep finger cracks with good ledges every 10'. Before you reach the roof, step left, and follow finger and hand cracks to the top.

This is my favorite of the 5.9/5.10s at this cliff, with high-quality, interesting, and well-protected climbing the whole way.


When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 5 on the Old New Place route topo photo.

The line shown in Jemez Rock incorrectly marked to the right of where you want to be, at the beginning.


Cams & nuts to 3".
2-bolt anchor.

Photos of High Roof Left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is where you set the top rope for high roof l...
BETA PHOTO: This is where you set the top rope for high roof l...

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