|Castle Rock - South Face
This route is location on the south slabs of the main formation. It is 2 routes to the right of Big Time, which is a 4-5 pitch bolted 5.7.
The first pitch is 5.8 except for the attention getting start at about 5.9. There is a little loose rock at the start. This pitch ends at a bolt anchor.
The second pitch has some quality slab climbing in the 5.9 range and is a real treat. I recommend combining the first two pitches in one long lead for the full experience.
The third pitch is the business pitch of the climb. Climb loose rock with trad gear to the first bolt. Fun patina face climbing leads you to another bolt anchor. (5.11a) The best descent may be with one rope, by rapping Big Time if it is not to crowded. It is a little scary getting to the first bolt due to the poor rock.
Draws and a light rack for the start of pitch 3...
Brian at the delicate crux near the anchors on pit...
From: SLC, UT
Sep 7, 2008
I felt like it went P1-5.8 P2-5.9 and P3-5.11b.