|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chris Hirsch on May 5, 2009|
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May 5, 2009
Dang you, Chris! Stealing my FA... It's unlikely that I will ever forgive you!
Good job, though! Another awesome Willow line..
By Ryan C.
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 2, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
It is much cleaner now. Most handholds should be good. If you get crazy with your feet you will most likely find loose rock (so make sure people are not in the river below you while you are on it). This is a great line and the last four bolts to the anchors will test your endurance.
Also it can be interesting to figure out the direction of travel at one point, just take the time. Well worthwhile of a climb.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 1, 2013
without some quickdraw jestery, this route has terrible rope drag, as OMG-i-cannot-even-be-lowered rope drag. yea, OMG, bro. OMG.
here's the beta to keep things drama free:
-bring a stick clip
-climb to the first bolt, go in direct, then stick clip draws on the bolts in the middle of roof (long petzl or bd draws work best). make sure your rope is through the first draw in the roof, that way you can lower off that bolt and remove the first bolt on the route (the bolt that is just 15 ft or so above the ground). removing the first bolt is key to reducing rope drag.
-once you are on lead, be sure to clip a double-length draw (or a normal length runner) on the bolt just above the roof. from here to the anchors,the remaining bolts all take normal length draws.