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High Pockets 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Mar 10, 2009
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High Pockets.

Description 

High Pockets is a nice break from the sharp crimps and tiny pockets usually offered at Shelf, this one is littered with jugs and good pockets most of the way. This is somewhat atypical climbing for Shelf, a fun and interesting route.


Location 

It is located near the north end of the wall, it's the last route (I believe) before the trail cuts across the gully to the east side of sand gulch. It's the only bolted route around, on the right side of a rounded prow.


Protection 

6 bolts.



Photos of High Pockets Slideshow Add Photo
Yay.
Yay.
The hardware seen here at the left side of the photo was replaced by hardware like that shown on the right side of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: The hardware seen here at the left side of the pho...
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By WSue
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 12, 2010

This route lost some hand/foot holds today that were located about half way up the route on the left side. Large rock & dangerously loose, the foot holds were trembling beneath our feet. They were knocked off the route during a climb. Not sure if it compromises the grade.

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Sep 13, 2010

That was a frightening amount of rock that came off, Wendy. One block easily weighed more than 100 lbs. I'm glad nobody was hurt. I don't know that it will be harder now, but the rockfall did eliminate a rest stance.

By Mitch Musci
Apr 11, 2011

The hardware on this route consists of smallish wedge bolts with old school/homemade bolt hangers. The bolted anchor is the same and quite rusty. Definitely in need of an update.

By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Apr 22, 2013

As of April 2013, this route has been completely, and thoughtfully, re-bolted including the finish hardware. D'Antonio's guidebook has it as 5.12 which is a mis-print. It is 5.11.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

One of the top anchors was provided courtesy of ASCA - many thanks to them. The rest of the hardware was supplied by the Devil's Head Crew (Rampart Range Rocks guidebook). Additionally, more loose blocks were cleaned, some probably loosened by the big chunk that came off not too long ago. Everything should be pretty solid now, but it's still best to not stand directly under the climber on this one, & you won't when you belay anyway as the climb angles a bit. Finally, thanks to Bob for spotting this great line in the first place.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Jan 27, 2014

Got on this line for the first time in 5 years. Really psyched to see new hardware. Thanks, ASCA.