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High Plains Drifter 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Raoul Sauco, Jake Darmopil
Page Views: 8,735
Submitted By: Colin Moorhead on Feb 20, 2008

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P1, gently overhanging for 100 feet. Beauty of a p...

Description 

Pitch 1. 5.10c-11a. Beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging hands. Over graded in current guidebooks.

Pitch 2. 5.11c. challenging hands and fingers. As the crack peters out make a committing reach (dyno for the short) to a decent hold and pull over the arete. Very exciting, but safe with good pro.

Pitch 3. 5.5 easy slab climbing to the top.

Location 

Just to the right of the last pitches of Angel's Crest...amazing 2 pitches.

Protection 

Double set of cams, 4-6 gold camalots for pitch one. No bigger than #3 camalot.


Photos of High Plains Drifter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of second pitch of High Plains Drifter.
Top of second pitch of High Plains Drifter.
Rock Climbing Photo: short stemming section with tight hands at the end...
short stemming section with tight hands at the end...
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome position, pitch one
Awesome position, pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: Ty Johnson on P1 of HPD.
Ty Johnson on P1 of HPD.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One
Pitch One
Rock Climbing Photo: David Trippett cruising p1.
David Trippett cruising p1.

Comments on High Plains Drifter Add Comment
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By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Borderline>Angels Crest>High Plains makes for a great day out.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 10, 2008

That sounds like really tiring day! I would like to try Borderline to Angel's Crest, and Angel's Crest to High Plains Drifter separately first.

Any additional comments on the gear required?
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Mar 13, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For Borderline> Angels Crest > High Plains

doubles from .5 to #2 camalot,a single of #3 and #4, double green and yellow aliens, one blue alien(or whatever if you don't like aliens) and some medium and small stoppers. 8 runners. lots of water. most will need an an early start

Borderline is technical and can be slow climbing. Bolts on the face pitches and a bolted chimney. The .11c crux takes small nuts and cams. Watch for drag on the last pitch.

from the end of Borderline either solo or simul the Crest to the base of High Plains. Pitching this part out too much wastes time.

Save some gas for High Plains. It's physical. Take some extra hand and fist gear for this if you don't like running it out a bit or you can walk the #3. You'll likely want to tape up for this first pitch, there's no stopper move and a competent 5.10 jammer shouldn't have too much trouble. It'd get 10c/d in the Valley. Save some small cams for the top of High Plains P2. Exposed! Awesome finish!

Worth repeating: plenty of water/snacks, tape for high plains
By Monica Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010

We just did this link up a couple of days ago and it was pretty sweet. We simuled all the middle stuff between Borderline and High Plains Drifter. My boyfriend led Borderline and I followed it, definitly wishing I'd taped up as I'm a smaller girl and had my whole arm in there. Definitly a long day!
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2015

From Colin's original description, which has combined with this one...

Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade IV
Consensus: YDS: 5.11c
FA: Raoul Sauco, Jake Darmopil

Description
Pitch 1. 5.10c. Beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging hands. Over graded in current guidebooks.

Pitch 2. 5.11c. challenging hands and fingers. As the crack peters out make a committing reach (dyno for the short) to a decent hold and pull over the arete. Very exciting, but safe with good pro.

Pitch 3. 5.5 easy slab climbing to the top.

Location
High Plains Sector.

From pitch 10 of Angels Crest traverse ledge approximately 50 meters and scurry up short gully to spacious ledge.

Protection
Double set of cams, 4-6 gold camalots for pitch one. No bigger than #3 camalot.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Nov 29, 2015



What's the beta on anchors on this route? Are there bolted anchors or gear anchors? Is it possible to climb the first pitch only and rap down to finish on Angel's Crest? I heard the 11c pitch is tough and from the sounds of things it doesn't sound very aid-able - I'd like to try this route but am concerned about leaving a bunch of gear if we can't make the upper crux work.
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Mar 3, 2016

Holy Jesus! ∆∆∆ Marc Andre makes HPD look absolutely trivial. How tall is that guy anyway? It's nice to see a Clydesdale flow up the rock like that!

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