Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Drifter/Smoking Boulder
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
Change of Heart 
High Plains Drifter 
Knobs, The 

High Plains Drifter 

V6-7

   
5,632 page views
Good page?   

Type: Boulder, 35 feet
Consensus: V7- [details]
FA: Dale Bard, c. '80's
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pouya on his send of High Plains Drifter

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start with sharp patina crimps and make some long pulls slightly up and right to gain a couple of slopers. Make a dynamic move off the slopes to gain better holds and an easy, but airy summit.

This problem is a North American classic and a must do for the visiting boulderer.

As a note of trivia, John Sherman referred to this problem as a benchmark standard for V6 in the first edition of his Hueco guide when he initially introduced the V-scale. It has since crept up in grade.


Location 

Center of the north Face.


Protection 

Pads and spotters



Photos of High Plains Drifter Slideshow Add Photo
Pouya on his send of High Plains Drifter

Pouya on his send of High Plains Drifter

An Austrian onsighting High Plains Drifter.

An Austrian onsighting High Plains Drifter.

Marc? on High Plains, spotted by Bill Ramesy

Marc? on High Plains, spotted by Bill Ramesy

Flashing HPD, just before the "Drifter" move.

Flashing HPD, just before the "Drifter" move.

High Plains Drifter

High Plains Drifter

Me on high planes drifter v7

Me on high planes drifter v7

Opening moves.

Opening moves.

Jordan drifting through the crux.

Jordan drifting through the crux.

In the crux.

In the crux.


Comments on High Plains Drifter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tommy Klinefelter
Nov 10, 2008

In reply to Sherman calling this problem a benchmark for V6, I think he was referring to Change of Heart, just left. Until the mid 90's, most people (including the lone guidebook at the time) had the two problem names reversed, until Bard finally clarified the mistake.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: V7

A word of note as to the V-scale.
The standards for V6 from Shermans Hueco guide with some thoughts

  • Left El Murray...impossible, well not quite but very hard, now it is impossible
  • Center El Murry...easy, wel now it is impossible
  • Bucket Roof...By the time the guide book was out, "NO TOUCHY"
  • High Plains Drifter...Regardless of which he was refering to HPD or CoH, harder than Center easier than Left
  • Pinch Overhang (Horsetooth Resivor)...I always thought this was supposed to be V5

Some people could just switch my opinion on Left and Center and it would still look pretty much the same.

By Justin Edl
Mar 10, 2009

LeeAB, AFAIK Pinch is considered V5 if you jump start it, but V6 if you stert with your feet on, dynoing to the lip instead of jumping off the ground.

As for the V6 rating of HPD, I have a friend who claims that this thing used to be V6 but holds have deteriorated/polished/broken over time and thus he claims that the problem now fits the standard for V7. Is that true? Awesome info/discussion guys!

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 25, 2009
rating: V7

I would have guessed that Sherman, with his taste for and knowledge of history would have jumped, of course I guess you'd have to ask him, he says he is arthritic so it could have been that he had a really hard time getting his foot up on the lip to mantle. After all as originally conceived and stated the rating system is based off of him and guaranteed 100% accurate as long as you have the same height, ape index, weight and medical issues.

As far as holds changing over the years, I first did the problem about 10 years ago and as far as I can tell it really has not changed in that time except that the holds are greasier. Of course with the grainy nature of some of the holds in the second half of the problem I would believe it if some of them had crumbled over the years.

By Kent Dunham
From: Alberta
May 28, 2009

I definitely think this route is a solid standard for V7. One of the unfortunate things about an ultra-classic like High Plains is that with all that traffic, the pressure to spray down the grade is high. If this route were less known or in a lesser traveled area it would be the benchmark V7 for the area.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 1, 2009

High Plains Drifter on Youtube -

By Andy Liu
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 30, 2010