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Coyote Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic Poodle S 
Bye Crackie S 
Coyotes at Sunset S 
Eight Second Ride S 
Es Muy Bueno T 
Golden Poodle S 
Golden Spike S 
High Noon S 
Hootenanny T 
Pass the Bucket T 
Red Brewster T 
Saddle Tramp TR 
Western Farm Service T 

High Noon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Chuck Scott, May 2001
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations

Description 

Climb a lower face past three bolts to gain a small stance below a bulge at the 4th bolt. Power over the bulge on somewhat hidden, but incut sidepulls and edges that get larger the higher you go. Above the bulge the angle turns to steep slab and the bolts become more spaced with a slight runout to the anchors.

Fun moves over the bulge but not as high quality as some of the surrounding routes - still worth a spin.

Location 

The bolted line between Golden Spike and Golden Poodle.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of High Noon Slideshow Add Photo
A mid-winter ascent of High Noon (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
A mid-winter ascent of High Noon (5.10b), Holcomb ...
High Noon topo
BETA PHOTO: High Noon topo
High Noon (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: High Noon (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ok route as "Golden Poodle" to the right will likely have a pile of people for a top rope session.

The line was difficult to follow as the lone bolt for "hootenanny" draws you over there just as you realize you should go left.

Nice enough moves and Chis is right that it's worth a spin if you're there anyways. A better guidebook could avoid any confusion on the routes on that wall.

....waiting....
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 2, 2008

I think I climbed this line...but with the squeeze jobs/variations on this wall I have no idea what route I actually climbed (not an uncommon case when relying on "topos" in Troy's guide). Maybe it was an accidental link up of the bottom of this and top of Golden Spike? Fun, if a bit confusing.
By Ben Lin
From: Anaheim, CA
May 26, 2014

Crux is indeed after 3rd bolt. Use the top of the two finger edge features on the bulge for the left hand and the far right edge (about 3 feet to the right) then step up with the left foot on the lower flake and pulled up hard and step high with the right foot on the small ledge. You'll end up a bit side ways leaning left, but it will allow you to be able to bump up to the C shaped edge and finally the small rail to match. Pull hard and you're home free. Rest of the climb after bolt 4 isn't too bad.

It's a fun climb, did it twice in a 30 minute window (first time was sloppy and brute force ugly, second time was a little more smooth, but still ugly).
By csass
Jul 7, 2014

This was a solid climb for sure. Rated 10a in Southern California Sport Climbing. A few pretty hard moves, but a super fun one. Took some hard looking to find some of the holds, but everything you need is there. Great onsight for me.