This short climb is insecure and sustained for it's mere 35' length. Still, the climbing is interesting. This climb is on the left side (E/NE) of Maverick wall and this time of the year one of the few climbs getting any sun beyond the beginning of the day, perhaps until 10 or 11am. Just to the right of the Hot Toddy and Tequilla Sunrise line there is a 35' chalked thin corner with a brief fist crack at the top. Climb on locks, clings, setms and liebacks to the anchors. A few of the sloping feet along the way were slippery due to shear (making sand) while climbing. Place pro to account for unexpected fall potential.
Despite the shortness of this line, it is still relatively good. As well, despite it's shortness, it also made a poor warm-up due to the power/thuggishness used for a few of the moves.
One area guide calls it "10d or 11b" (as a lieback or a crack climb). So maybe you can TR it and it seems easier (like 10d) if you don't have to gain stances to see and place gear, or maybe you could ignore a few good lie-back moves to make it feel harder (like 11b) but for the onsight lead I'll will call it 11a. A little more physical than a few climbs at that grade, but due to it's length, not more difficult overall.
.3-1" cams plus a large stopper or passive tricam.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This is short, but it felt about 11b placing gear on lead. I thought it was fun and worth getting on.
From: davis, ca
Mar 12, 2008
my first climb in the utah desert...spat me off on the onsight...thought from the look and length it would be easier...figured ahh couldnt be much harder than 5.9...guessed wrong...was easier the second go but was definitely harder than i'd planned for my 'warmup'