High Mountain Woody 5.8+
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Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...
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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>
Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-malamute
Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.
Location Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.
Protection Cams to 4", doubles to 2", nuts.
| Comments on High Mountain Woody |
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By ScottH
Sep 6, 2007
| This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM. |
By Alpine Carl
Mar 10, 2008
| If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse. |
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.
I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving. |
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Mar 11, 2013
| Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.
Beautiful setting. |
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