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The Malamute
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Quagmire Crack T 
The Wizard of Id T 
Berrycup T 
Caboose T 
Cider Crack T 
Clean Crack T 
Cling Peaches T 
Crescent Crack T 
Curly S 
Fungus Razor T 
Grub Street T 
Hand Jive T 
High Mountain Woody T 
Jacob's Other Ladder T 
Larry S 
Moe S 
Neighbourhood Bully T 
Old Style T 
Overly Hanging Out T 
Pacing the Cage S 
Paul's Crack T 
Penguins in Bondage T 
Pinky Locks T 
Shallow End, The S 
Slap and Tickle T 
Sparky S 
Stefanie's Tears T 
Stone Cold T,S 
Trailer ArrĂȘt 
Under the Mercy T 
Unsorted Routes:

High Mountain Woody 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 3,008
Submitted By: ihategrigris on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Last jug of an awesome climb. Great setting!

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.


Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.


Cams: doubles to 2", nuts.

Photos of High Mountain Woody Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...
Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: jade littlewood cruising up the line
jade littlewood cruising up the line
Rock Climbing Photo: Stupid fun
Stupid fun

Comments on High Mountain Woody Add Comment
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By ScottH
Sep 6, 2007

This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.

It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
By Alpine Carl
Mar 10, 2008

If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.

I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Mar 11, 2013

Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.

Beautiful setting.
By Al Pogue
From: Squamish, British Columbia
Oct 6, 2014

The gift that keeps on giving. Great, great route.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A low crux leads to crack swimming. Seriously, after the first 20 feet it's just fun climbing for what seems like forever. And then it's over, and you'll want to get right back on it. A single set of cams is plenty unless you really want to sew up the easy stuff.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 23, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA: Glenn Payan, May 1996- can you believe these great cracks where not climbed before?

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