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 ADVANCED
Redrock and vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda 
Black Streak 
Broken Ankle 
Chimney 
Excuse Me 
Frosty The Boulder 
Happy Feet 
High Me 
Hobo's Chimney, The 
Hole in One 
Laughing Gull 
Midnight Train 
Morning Glory 
No Bolt 
No Steps 
Plank, The 
Ray's Picture 
Rip Van Winkle 
Roll the Bones 
Scotty Bones 
Seappage 
Slab n' Jab 
Slip Van Winkle 
Steps 
Steps Direct 
Stonehenge Slab 
Swayback 
Toe Jams 
Velcro 
Why Me? 
Wings of Steal 
Wink Van Ripple 
Wizard's Hat, The 
Y - Boulder 
Zipper 
Zits 
Unsorted Routes:

High Me 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: "High Me" ascends the left side of the slab in the...

Description 

Make thoughtful moves up the fun slab on the left side of the little triangular buttress (crux). Exit at the weakness under the tree, traverse right on the ledge, and then lay-back up the the corner. Exit right at the top of the corner towards a small tree.

This may be the tallest climb on the cliff.


Location 

Start on the left of the little triangular buttress that forms the ramp at the start of Morning Glory, Steps, and Zits. It is almost directly beneath the large tree midway up.


Protection 

TR bolts are left of the corner above the face. Setting up the TR anchor can be a bit a sketchy, so consider clipping in for safety.

I have not led this, but the initial slab is entirely unprotected. Also, the top of the corner widens to off-width, so one would need wide gear to protect it fully (but it is the easiest part of the climb).

It would also be possible to move up the easy ramp on the left to the tree.



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By mikeinvt
Dec 10, 2011

A good alternative moderate when the routes on the main face are occupied. The corner crack at the top is pretty fun. When I led it, I climbed the ramp on the left of the slab which takes plenty of gear. Also, I found plenty of gear on the upper section as well, just look around. The only slightly spicy move is at the top if you are going for the anchor bolts off to the left. Instead, I used the tree and a stopper at the top of the corner. I would not give this climb an R rating, PG maybe.

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Dec 13, 2011

I think it is the slab start (containing the crux) where the R rating comes from. Which indeed is unprotectable and has a pretty rough landing, about 15ft from the cruxs...yikes.

By mnatti
Jan 12, 2012

The slab start is about a 5.9 I believe, protected with a pad. The ramp keeps the grade solid and is definitely well protected. As for the top.... the anchors were added for TR but makes for a spicy "pg-13"/ "r" slab finish with out changing the grade (much). Does that top move want a bolt to protect from a rolled ankle? I didn't feel it to be a "must" but perhaps for the grade it should be considered. Talk amongst yourselves. The Bosch will stay dormant for now.