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Cactus Cliff
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High Heeled Tittty Twister 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson, Julian Smith, 2001
Page Views: 1,834
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).

Description 

Located between Politically Incorrect and Shelf Pride, this route ascends a cool crack that splits a headwall above a roof. Start as for Politically Incorrect, but go straight up to the roof instead of traversing right. Pull the roof to the left side and continue straight up the finger crack. Either clip the anchors at the end of the crack or step left and continue up to the anchors on Shelf Pride.

Protection 

7 bolts.


Photos of High Heeled Tittty Twister Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Davis under the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Steve Davis under the roof.
Shannon moving past the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Shannon moving past the roof.
Shannon above the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Shannon above the roof.
Oh no, not another roof shot!  Matt on lead.
Oh no, not another roof shot! Matt on lead.

Comments on High Heeled Tittty Twister Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
May 4, 2002

Call it 10b. A fun route but look out for some loose rock down low. The bolt spacing is a little "sporty" on the easier sections so a leader pushing his/her limits might want to try a different route.
By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Nov 30, 2003

I agree with Dave on the 10b rating. Although the bolts aren't as close as they can be on other Cactus routes, I felt the solid hand and finger jams resulted in confident climbing. Maybe my paws just fit the cracks well. A fun route.
By Clint Ballard
From: Greeley, CO
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The guidebook calls this climb 10a. It is bolted fine and should not be avoided.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Feb 24, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Easier than some of the .9s on Cactus. I'd say: 10a. The bolts are well placed. I would not discourage a 10a leader from this one.
By Travis Merrill
Apr 28, 2009

I really liked this route, it looked harder than it was. Also when i reached the anchors both the nuts on the bolts were so loose i could finger tighten them. The bolts seemed fine but the "hangers" are barely on there, i backed it up with the one cam i always have on me (yay green link) and tightened as much as I could with my fingers. Someone might want to take a wrench up there or something.
By Gabe Anderson
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was a very fun climb. Bolts are well placed. The crux for me was after moving out on to the face and clipping the last bolt before the anchors. I'd say 10a is fair.