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High Hanging Biscuits 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR, Cox
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Jul 8, 2012
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EFR finishing up the crux on the F.A. of High Hang...

Description 

High Hanging Biscuits is a beautiful line that climbs independently on the other side of the Mulligan Stew arete, and continues to the top of the crag via a crux head wall. A 5.11 crux on the arete in the first 30 feet yields to some classic cruising with occasional jugs. Navigate an interesting slab which steepens to an enjoyable jug haul over a crest. Follow another slab as it steepens into the final head wall crux. Stick a tenuous move... and clip, then tug through good crimps to the chains.


Location 

Between Mulligan Stew and Red Ball.


Protection 

11 bolts



Photos of High Hanging Biscuits Slideshow Add Photo
Helen enjoying the fun climbing after the first crux of High Hanging Biscuits.
Helen enjoying the fun climbing after the first cr...
High Hanging Biscuits climbs left of the pretty water streak and eventually up the black streak leading to the tree at the top.
High Hanging Biscuits climbs left of the pretty wa...
David flashes High Hanging Biscuits.
David flashes High Hanging Biscuits.
Collin working his way through the first crux section.
Collin working his way through the first crux sect...
Helen hanging the biscuits on her send.
Helen hanging the biscuits on her send.
Comments on High Hanging Biscuits Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012

Thanks for putting a cherry on top of a great weekend Colin! Great to meet a bunch of the Flagstaff gang. I have a whole new respect for Hobos.

By Colin Cox
Jul 9, 2012

It was good to meet you Eric. Thanks for your work...and the elk....and the book. I hope that name works for you.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 11, 2012

High hanging biscuits means there is a scarcity of food handouts in an area. There was no scarcity of new route handouts at the Jungle thanks to Darren and others willingness to share. Thanks.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

The arete moves are tricky and great position. The headwall crux is brief and might be a tad height dependent, but good moves on bullet rock! The first clip in the headwall is a difficult draw to hang. Another option to keep the climbing 11 and under is to bail out to Mulligan's anchors at its last bolt instead of doing the biscuits headwall.

By Colin Cox
Jul 21, 2012

How about a low anchor at the crest for a nice 5.11....and one can choose to add the headwall finish for more difficulty.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 23, 2012

The name is High Hanging Biscuits which means you gotta work for it. Let them bail left if they don't want to get the good stuff. It's only a couple letters harder

I thought the bolt in the headwall was hard to clip when we set it up but on the Redpoint I used a hold to the left and it wasn't too hard to clip.

By Colin Cox
Jul 23, 2012

I had no problem putting the draws on and clipping when I did it, but I had been there before....I knew what to expect. Eric, this route has seen two onsights already so I decided to lower the grade to 11d which is what you suggested after you hiked it. Felt that way to me also when I did it.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 23, 2012

I agree with the grade Colin. Looks like you are staying busy up there. Guessing other folks will give you a concensus as the weeks go by. Start thinking about a visit as I am back from the Valley.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2012

Pretty thin technical climbing down low, and a series of serious cranks up high. Kind of felt like a South Dakota Needles route...