High Hanging Biscuits 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | EFR, Cox |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Colin Cox on Jul 8, 2012 |
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EFR finishing up the crux on the F.A. of High Hang...
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Description High Hanging Biscuits is a beautiful line that climbs independently on the other side of the Mulligan Stew arete, and continues to the top of the crag via a crux head wall. A 5.11 crux on the arete in the first 30 feet yields to some classic cruising with occasional jugs. Navigate an interesting slab which steepens to an enjoyable jug haul over a crest. Follow another slab as it steepens into the final head wall crux. Stick a tenuous move... and clip, then tug through good crimps to the chains.
Location Between Mulligan Stew and Red Ball.
Protection 11 bolts
High Hanging Biscuits climbs left of the pretty wa...
| Collin working his way through the first crux sect...
| David flashes High Hanging Biscuits.
| Helen enjoying the fun climbing after the first cr...
| Helen hanging the biscuits on her send.
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| Comments on High Hanging Biscuits |
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By 1Eric Rhicard Jul 9, 2012
| Thanks for putting a cherry on top of a great weekend Colin! Great to meet a bunch of the Flagstaff gang. I have a whole new respect for Hobos. |
By Colin Cox Jul 9, 2012
| It was good to meet you Eric. Thanks for your work...and the elk....and the book. I hope that name works for you. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jul 11, 2012
| High hanging biscuits means there is a scarcity of food handouts in an area. There was no scarcity of new route handouts at the Jungle thanks to Darren and others willingness to share. Thanks. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Jul 18, 2012 rating: 5.11d
| The arete moves are tricky and great position. The headwall crux is brief and might be a tad height dependent, but good moves on bullet rock! The first clip in the headwall is a difficult draw to hang. Another option to keep the climbing 11 and under is to bail out to Mulligan's anchors at its last bolt instead of doing the biscuits headwall. |
By Colin Cox Jul 21, 2012
| How about a low anchor at the crest for a nice 5.11....and one can choose to add the headwall finish for more difficulty. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jul 23, 2012
| The name is High Hanging Biscuits which means you gotta work for it. Let them bail left if they don't want to get the good stuff. It's only a couple letters harder I thought the bolt in the headwall was hard to clip when we set it up but on the Redpoint I used a hold to the left and it wasn't too hard to clip. |
By Colin Cox Jul 23, 2012
| I had no problem putting the draws on and clipping when I did it, but I had been there before....I knew what to expect. Eric, this route has seen two onsights already so I decided to lower the grade to 11d which is what you suggested after you hiked it. Felt that way to me also when I did it. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jul 23, 2012
| I agree with the grade Colin. Looks like you are staying busy up there. Guessing other folks will give you a concensus as the weeks go by. Start thinking about a visit as I am back from the Valley. |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 1, 2012
| Pretty thin technical climbing down low, and a series of serious cranks up high. Kind of felt like a South Dakota Needles route... |
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