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High Exposure Exit 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Erik Powell, John Kitchell, Toni Ask, Geoff Grange, January '71
Season: July- Feb
Page Views: 2,737
Submitted By: ccmski on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Can 5.6 be exciting? At GM, you better believe it...

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the intersection of the Flying Buttress and the Main wall, climb out diagonally right on small edges past three bolts. There is a small pocket that takes a small cam or nut after the last bolt. Continue up and around the corner. Belay on top of the cliff.

Descend from two bolts on a block atop the cliff. A 70m rope or 2 ropes are needed to make the first rappel. Continue rappelling the Coke Bottle via 2 more rappels.

Location 

At the intersection of the top of the Flying Buttress and the main wall.

Protection 

Bolts and a small cam or nut


Photos of High Exposure Exit Slideshow Add Photo
Passing Bolt 3
Passing Bolt 3
Coming across the Flying Buttress after doing the ...
Coming across the Flying Buttress after doing the ...
This is the last place you want to be on a windy d...
This is the last place you want to be on a windy d...
looking up the H.E.E.
looking up the H.E.E.
Nick S. heading out on, the appropriately named, H...
Nick S. heading out on, the appropriately named, H...
Starting out.
Starting out.
High Exposure Exit
High Exposure Exit

Comments on High Exposure Exit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Lee
From: Las Vegas
Nov 1, 2010

"Watch out for . . . extremely high winds that can hit during any season" Bill Cramer.

My partner and I climbed this route as a front was moving through. When we rapped, my 70 meter rope which was coiled and hanging off my harness was being lifted horizontally in the wind. The most exciting "5.6" pitch ever.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 27, 2011

How many feet or meters is this pitch? My madre lives in Chino Valley and I wanna check GM out the next time I'm there.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 7, 2011

this pitch is probably only around 100' depending on where you set up the belay
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Oct 11, 2011

Thanks ccmski.
By MacM
From: Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

2/3 of the bolts are relatively new. I took a whip on the 3rd not-so-good looking bolt and it was solid. No worries here, super fun route!
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 18, 2014

3rd bolt is an old 1/4 taper expansion bolt with a Leeper hanger. While this bolt may hold a fall, both the bolt and hanger should be considered suspect.
By Miguel D
From: Prescott
Aug 14, 2015

After the three bolts, you have two small cracks that will take small nuts, these two pieces should be enough after the bolts to get you safely to, and around the arete and into the easy gully on the other side. So you'll need five draws and two small nuts for this pitch. You could place pro around the arete, in the gully, but you'd have some unnecessary rope drag and an awkward direction for the belay. If you keep all pro on the wall before the arete (makes the most sense), you can belay comfortably sitting down on the edge looking down at your second if you build your anchor at the hangers for the coke bottle rap station

Also, we used a relatively new 60m rope and we had to rely on rope stretch to reach the second rap station. I stopped on rap on my prussik and reached below me to clip my personal anchor before untying the knots on the ends, rapping off the ends and then retying them for my second
By Ethan Higgins
Aug 18, 2015

So this route starts at the top of the flying buttress?

Which routes will get you up there?
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Aug 18, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Ya, it's really just a last pitch to get you to the top. You can take HEE or Beaver Cleaver(5.8+) for your final pitch up. Alternatively, you can get to the Coke Bottle Raps after a little bit of easy scrambling from the top of the Flying Buttress to the south if you donn't want to do HE or BC for any reason.

Quite a few routes will get you there, but the most common is likely the Classic.
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