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High Exposure Exit 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Erik Powell, John Kitchell, Toni Ask, Geoff Grange, January '71
Season: July- Feb
Page Views: 2,086
Submitted By: ccmski on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Can 5.6 be exciting? At GM, you better believe it...

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the intersection of the Flying Buttress and the Main wall, climb out diagonally right on small edges past three bolts. There is a small pocket that takes a small cam or nut after the last bolt. Continue up and around the corner. Belay on top of the cliff.

Descend from two bolts on a block atop the cliff. A 70m rope or 2 ropes are needed to make the first rappel. Continue rappelling the Coke Bottle via 2 more rappels.

Location 

At the intersection of the top of the Flying Buttress and the main wall.

Protection 

Bolts and a small cam or nut


Photos of High Exposure Exit Slideshow Add Photo
Passing Bolt 3
Passing Bolt 3
Coming across the Flying Buttress after doing the Classic.
Coming across the Flying Buttress after doing the ...
This is the last place you want to be on a windy day.  Exciting finish.
This is the last place you want to be on a windy d...
looking up the H.E.E.
looking up the H.E.E.
Nick S. heading out on, the appropriately named, High Exposure Exit.
Nick S. heading out on, the appropriately named, H...
Starting out.
Starting out.
High Exposure Exit
High Exposure Exit

Comments on High Exposure Exit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Lee
From: Las Vegas
Nov 1, 2010

"Watch out for . . . extremely high winds that can hit during any season" Bill Cramer.

My partner and I climbed this route as a front was moving through. When we rapped, my 70 meter rope which was coiled and hanging off my harness was being lifted horizontally in the wind. The most exciting "5.6" pitch ever.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 27, 2011

How many feet or meters is this pitch? My madre lives in Chino Valley and I wanna check GM out the next time I'm there.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 7, 2011

this pitch is probably only around 100' depending on where you set up the belay
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Oct 11, 2011

Thanks ccmski.
By MacM
From: Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

2/3 of the bolts are relatively new. I took a whip on the 3rd not-so-good looking bolt and it was solid. No worries here, super fun route!