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High Energy Crag

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L to R R to L Alpha
Diet of Worms T,TR 
Imp-Passible Crack T 
Neutron Star T,TR 

High Energy Crag  


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Elevation: 7,600'
Location: 39.9915, -105.4174 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,240
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: High Energy Crag as seen from the road. Cross the ...

  • Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Eds. Note, according to State Biologist who has confirmed this with a site visit, this crag is very close to a closed are but is OPEN TO CLIMBING!

    In the late '70s and early '80s, High Energy Crag saw a lot of action for its clean cracks on bullet-proof Boulder Granite. While the crag is small and never gets great sun, it can offer several moderate trad lines with a minimal approach and real respite from the sweltering heat. Most of the routes take off from above the slab and in the right facing dihedral. "Proton" at 5.9 and "Diet of Worms" at 5.10a are certainly fine lines that take excellent pro and offer up some of the sweetest jams in Boulder Canyon. HEC also hosts a couple of 5.11s that are well worth jumping on, and everything here can be done with a small rack of cams or a fist full of stoppers - just bring the whole range. The dihedral can be approached in many ways, so pick the most comfortable one. A couple of big Friends can be placed at the base for a belay and belays at the top are plentiful too - or head for the tree. HEC used to be a Boulder Canyon gem, and it still is.

    L->R:

    A. Eugenics Wars?, 12 , 1p, 40', gear.
    B. No Preservatives? 10, 1p, 40', gear.
    C. Star Span?, 11, 1p, 40', gear.
    D. Golden Bull?, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
    E. Proton?, 9 - hmmm, 1p, 40', gear.
    F. Neutron Star, 10- R, 1p, 40', gear.
    G. Diet Of Worms, 10a-, 1p, 40', gear.
    H. Imp-Passible Crack, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
    I. Next to Imp-Passible?, 9, 1p, 40', gear.

    Eds. please note the management plan found at bouldercounty.org/openspace/ma... indicates no new bolting is allowed in this area.

    Getting There 

    Drive 9.1 miles up the canyon. Park as for Easter Rock but cross the stream at the obvious crag with a large right facing dihedral.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.4 miles from here

    3 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For High Energy Crag
    I'm posting this photo here until a beta photo get...

    Imp-Passible Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Boulder Canyon : High Energy Crag
    This stellar roof crack is about 15 feet right of the main dihedral (Diet of Worms, 5.10a) on the crag. Climb the hand and fist crack over a bulge 8' off the ground to gain the no-hands rest directly below the roof crack. The roof takes good pro and the fall is clean (trust me...I tried it out). Fun stemming moves and strenuous jams will get you near the lip of the roof, but you have to get horizontal in the crack before you can clear the bulge. Pop over the roof and you're done...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for High Energy Crag
    Comments on High Energy Crag Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 4, 2010
    I regret to have to pass on this information from Boulder County Parks and Open Space via Boulder County Sheriffs, this crag is closed indefinitely to the public for any purpose. Fines start at $50. Sorry.

    Addendum: Tony, THANK YOU for updating this information below. The crag is open. Yeah!
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Apr 5, 2010
    Has anyone heard/found a justification for this closure?
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 20, 2010
    This is another local example of overzealous land management in the Boulder Region. The other nearby example is the closure of Boulder Falls for the past year and a half by Boulder Mountain Parks & Open Space. The closure of High Energy Crag makes no sense since it sees very few visitors. I call it bureaucratic muscle flexing. Aren't you guys tough!
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 21, 2010
    Mark, Leo Paik asked Boulder County about the justification for the closure. My recollection was that it had something to do wildlife but that specifics were not forthcoming. Regarding OSMP and Boulder Falls, and this is from rangers I know, the city is very nervous about legal liability in the area. It is lawyers, not bureaucratic muscle-flexing, who are responsible.

    Of the two closures, the Boulder Falls one is the most irksome but technically the approach to Lower Dream is trespassing anyway, so the closure actually doesn't represent a real change from a legal standpoint. The best solution would be to establish a climbers' right of way to Dream via Boulder Falls but the problem would probably be private landowners, not OSMP.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 29, 2011
    The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
    -------------------------------------------
    Tony,
    High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

    This information is open to all the public.

    Thanks for your patience,

    Susan Spaulding
    Senior Wildlife Biologist
    Boulder County Parks and Open Space