Tip of the Talon at sunrise
High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.
This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.
The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map
for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.
From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.
Climbing Season For the Shuteye Ridge area.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Eagle
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
Featured Route For High Eagle
Elixir 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: Southern Sierra
: ... : Main Wall
WOW!!! This route is a stunner. Start up easy terrain on sweet horizontals before you pull over onto a slab. Enjoy the warmup because soon enough the holds start shrinking and you are presented with the first of many cruxes. Weave your way up the wall and eventually make hard moves to a dihedral system out left. Savor a few bolts of easy climbing before confronted with a final long cruxy section. This route is super technical and just keeps delivering. Ends on an obvious ledge. If you still want...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: High Eagle Overview
Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
BETA PHOTO: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome