Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
High Eagle

Select Area...
Aerie Dome 
Baby Blues Wall 
Dark Side 
Low Rider 
Main Wall 
Main Wall - Lower Left 
Shape Shifter Area 

High Eagle Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 37.3736, -119.428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,527
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.

This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.

Getting There 

The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.

From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.4 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
We Free Again Boys   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   Dark Side
Welcome to the Dark Side   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Dark Side
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall - Lower Left
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall - Lower Left
Darth Vader   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Dark Side
Elixir   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Gravity Pool   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Shape Shifter Area
Bio Luminescent   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Illuminati   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 230'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Eagle

Featured Route For High Eagle
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben having fun on Darth Vader. Photo by Casey Zak

Darth Vader 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Dark Side
Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of High Eagle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High Eagle Sunrise
High Eagle Sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: High Eagle Overview
BETA PHOTO: High Eagle Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome
BETA PHOTO: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome

Comments on High Eagle Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!