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High Eagle

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Aerie Dome 
Baby Blues Wall 
Dark Side 
Low Rider 
Main Wall 
Main Wall - Lower Left 
Shape Shifter Area 
Talon 

High Eagle Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 37.3736, -119.428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,387
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
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Description 

High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.

This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.

Getting There 

The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.

From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.

Climbing Season

For the Shuteye Ridge area.

Weather station 10.4 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',15],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 70'   Main Wall
Carnivore   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talon
We Free Again Boys   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   Dark Side
Welcome to the Dark Side   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Dark Side
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall - Lower Left
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall - Lower Left
Elixir   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Darth Vader   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Dark Side
Gravity Pool   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Shape Shifter Area
Illuminati   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 230'   Main Wall
Bio Luminescent   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Eagle

Featured Route For High Eagle
Rock Climbing Photo: Elixir starts up the middle of the photo and stays...

Elixir 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Main Wall
WOW!!! This route is a stunner. Start up easy terrain on sweet horizontals before you pull over onto a slab. Enjoy the warmup because soon enough the holds start shrinking and you are presented with the first of many cruxes. Weave your way up the wall and eventually make hard moves to a dihedral system out left. Savor a few bolts of easy climbing before confronted with a final long cruxy section. This route is super technical and just keeps delivering. Ends on an obvious ledge. If you still want...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of High Eagle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High Eagle Sunrise
High Eagle Sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: High Eagle Overview
BETA PHOTO: High Eagle Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome
BETA PHOTO: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome

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