High Anxiety 5.10 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 650 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | The Uriostes |
| Submitted By: | John Wilder on Mar 19, 2008 |
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Description This route ascends the obvious dihedral about 150' to the right of Nightcrawler. The climbing is fun and varied, but the last two pitches are best avoided due to the deteriorating quality of the rock.
Location Start 150' right of Nightcrawler on an easy slab below an obvious roof about 200' up. The best option for descent is to rappel Pro Choice, accessed from near the top of the 5th pitch. Bring two ropes. Otherwise, go to the top, then head south and west to the Gunsight.
Protection Gear to 4" is fine, extra small and medium stuff. Some pro bolts and one bolted anchor.
By Greg Barnes Mar 20, 2008
| John forgot to mention that we replaced the 30-year-old bolts yesterday. There are 2 pro bolts on the 2nd, a bolted anchor top of the 2nd, and 2 pro bolts on the 3rd. |
By J. Thompson From: denver, co Mar 27, 2008
| I think John ment to say rappell "Pro choice" as Pro life is basically a 1 pitch variation to pro choice. |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 29, 2008
| Ah, sorry bout that. Edited above! |
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada May 10, 2010 rating: 5.10
| thanks for doing work up there fellas, hit brownstone for the first time yesterday, beautiful routes |
By -robin- Nov 6, 2012 rating: 5.10
| A party began climbing Nightcrawler just as we arrived, and being that I refuse to wait to climb one route when there are so many others around, we got on this. It is two 80m pitches of real climbing, 5.6/7 to a 5.10/9, if you follow the ramp out left on the upper part, I followed the corner through crappy rock, and awkward moves, then 80-100m or wandering, loose 4-5th class to the top. Not really worth the time, the descent is long, the quality of the climbing low, pick a different route. Perhaps next time I'll be more patient. |
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