High Anxiety 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Eric Forney |
| Submitted By: | adampeters on Jan 4, 2007 |
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Dick Dower on High Anxiety, Lower Mount Scott, WMW...
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The main route at Lower Scott, start on either side of the arete to gain great pro and climbing. Head straight up the crack and pull around a slight bulge for the crux. Continue up to Anchors on a good ledge.
Location The trail to the bottom of the crag was redone a couple of years ago by volunteers, thanks guys, and is much better than it used to be.
Protection Nuts and Cams, but nothing larger than a #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt anchor at the top.
Josh on High Anxiety Nov 2008
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An unknown climber on High Anxiety, Mt. Scott, Wic...
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BETA PHOTO: The initial roof system on High Anxiety. Couple g...
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BETA PHOTO: Face portion of High Anxiety after you pull out of...
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By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008
| This is arguably the most climbed route in the Refuge. Always sees traffic because of quick access to the route, and the two bolt anchor at the top.
Plus it's a good climb.... |
By CalebSimpson
Apr 26, 2009
| Yowza! This climb gave me a run for my money. Took my first big lead fall on this one. Placed a yellow TCU about 3/4 up the route and had clipped it but didn't quite like it, so jamed my hand in the crack bellow and began to move up to check it out, my jam blew and I want sailing down about 20ft. I SHOULD have not fallen that far though, but my belayer was a newbie and there was a lot of drag in the tope making it hard to determine how much slack there actually was. It gave me a good scare.
The route makes you think though. It's a very sustained 5.7 and a hard 5.7 at that. |
By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.7
| This route eats up gear. Most of the climbing is fairly easy and straight-forward. Great hands and feet. The crux is very committing and exposed but protects beautifully. Once through the crux, it's easy climbing. I definitely feel the name of this route is appropriate. |
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