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Hiding from the wind in Eldo
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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2014
Wind: the scourge of Front Range winter and spring. A couple times this winter I've left Golden in a slight breeze, and driven to Eldo only to be turned around and sent home by a near-hurricane. I've had a few other days where I've persevered through the wind, but it definately added some spice when it sometimes felt like you might get blown off of the route. Sure gets windy in that canyon.

Anyway, what crags in Eldo are best for a somewhat windy day? Of course, it depends on wind direction (tomorrow's forecast calls for a moderate west wind). In any case, where do you head in Eldo when the wind is blowing (aside from Movement)? What about other Boulder/Golden area crags...where is the most sheltered?

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Mar 8, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
the robbins traverse on yellow spur in 50mph winds! FUN!!!!!


mountainproject.com/v/hawk-eag...

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By Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2014
Hawk Eagle Ridge is wind free.

There is a spot where you can feel the wind disappear, a literal line in the air. There are some good lines farther up the ridge. It's not really a target destination for me unless I want to avoid the wind completely.

Also, skip the uninspiring wall. I have yet to regret doing any climbs, but the one on i tried on there was...disappointing.

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By Paul-B
Mar 8, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
I think thats tough, Redgarden seems well sheltered if you only stay 1-2 pitches up, as soon as you crest above west ridge wind starts picking up, topping out will be wildly windy if its that type of day. I don't have any great crags that would be wind free, I think staying close to the ground might be key if you are wanting to avoid it. Might consider east side of redgarden, I don't climb there often, but it might be a bit more sheltered.

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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2014
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.
Great thread! I am curious about this too after my partner and I were getting totally blown (har har) off the bolt ladder pitch on the Spur this past December. Definitely a hair raising experience that put me a bit too far out of my comfort zone.

We rapped down Vertigo and there were quite a few parties happily single pitching the lower Redgarden wall, so I think that might be a good suggestion.

I'd love to read others too!

A small side note: my partner is convinced that Eldo in the winter months has a different feel to the rock that is superior to any other season. Is there any truth (read: evidence) to this?

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By flynn
Mar 8, 2014
Tony, you're right. Staying close to the ground is your only hope. I've had fairly good luck on the West Ridge, below about Pony Express or so.

As to the feel of the rock, I tend to agree with you, though of course that's just my opinion. It seems a little less slick.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2014
Tony T. wrote:
A small side note: my partner is convinced that Eldo in the winter months has a different feel to the rock that is superior to any other season. Is there any truth to this?


The first principle of climbing conditions: Cold Temps = Sticky Rock. True just about everywhere.

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By Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2014
I'm telling you....Hawk Eagle ridge is pretty much wind free. Until you top out.

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By EDJ
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 10, 2014
Hawk Eagle is the wind free spot for sure

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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Mar 10, 2014
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim
I have noticed that the area where W Ridge flattens out near White Lightning seems to be more sheltered than climbs lower down.

What about Kloof alcove?

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Mar 11, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
fossana wrote:
I have noticed that the area where W Ridge flattens out near White Lightning seems to be more sheltered than climbs lower down. What about Kloof alcove?


W Ridge is good, but in my experience, Kloof is pretty rough unless the winds are from the North, which is storm weather anyway.

The area between Xanadu and Joke Crack/Purple Haze/The Bat/Muscular Dystrophy can be better than most, as can the Unsaid area. But none of it is great in a real windy day.
Lastly, the area at the base of Rincon can be calmer, as well as a few of the Cadilac Crag dihedrals, but again, it depends on wind direction.

EDJ wrote:
Hawk Eagle is the wind free spot for sure


Some of it is, but if there was recent snow, the approach can be tough, as you have to run around on slabs past 1/2 height, and they get slick. If you do make it up there, the area at Brother Jug/Tombstone/Die Heeda Rule is sheltered, short and does not top out. And there you have a 1-move warm-up, a medium hard fun route and a harder one, all within feet of each other.
And yeah, it's wind-sheltered, but not sunny.
Joseffa Meir starts up the very steep and gymnastic hands-to-offwidth crack on Tombstone, on Hawk Eagle Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Image by Tony Bubb, September 9, 2000.
Joseffa Meir starts up the very steep and gymnastic hands-to-offwidth crack on Tombstone, on Hawk Eagle Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Image by Tony Bubb, September 9, 2000.


Good luck, have fun, and climb safe!

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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2014
Loving it up in the Creek!
+1 for Hawk Eagle. Not the best rock, but there sure is some exciting climbing up there!

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Mar 19, 2014
Yoda
fossana wrote:
What about Kloof alcove?


Kloof Alcove is mostly 5.12 and up gear routes. Kloof Roof is 10+ and classic in a way, but it really feels harder I think.

Windy Eldo, don't you love starting a pitch with a full bag of chalk and getting to the belay and there's not a speck left because it was spinning wildly the whole time?

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