About a third of the way into the crag (from the right) is this large and distinctive crack. From the ground, it looks like it has an offwidth crux, but in reality the crack opens up inside to allow the passage of all but the most oversized. Juggy, but with good jams too.
Single set of cams, 3/4" to 3".
Jun 6, 2005
Protects very well, appearances notwithstanding. Once you get up inside the chimney itself, there are several crack systems to choose from. A little bit of everything for pro. At the top, go right and rap off the anchors for the route FLAKE.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 11, 2005
Did this route for the first time today. FANTASTIC. Looks intimidating from the ground but has a ton of good pro once you get higher in the chimney...you can place just about anything but a #4 Camalot was definitely helpful. I climbed right side in for the first half, then it really doesn't matter.
Mar 26, 2007
The name for the formation came from Prof. John Walker in the 60's; he took his Preacher climbing after services and upon looking down his first rappell - an overhanging one no less- the man of god uttered ; "Holy Sh*t - I mean Saturday!!"
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Mar 9, 2008
This really is a great route no matter how cool you are, er...I mean, how hard you climb.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 5, 2011
I'm told that some people consider this a 5.7, and if you're leading, with the rack getting in the way, it may feel that way. However, seconding or soloing makes it much easier, and also moves the crux to the top.
|By jake marlow|
Feb 24, 2012
This is a fun climb, AND it is the easiest way to get to the awesome rap down!