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Holy Saturday
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Flake T 
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Hideaway Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Mike Dewey, Bob Toryton, Bob Askmit, 1964
Page Views: 2,513
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Apr 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Description 

About a third of the way into the crag (from the right) is this large and distinctive crack. From the ground, it looks like it has an offwidth crux, but in reality the crack opens up inside to allow the passage of all but the most oversized. Juggy, but with good jams too.

Protection 

Single set of cams, 3/4" to 3".


Photos of Hideaway Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Brittany rocking the chimney.
Brittany rocking the chimney.
View of the chimney looking NW.
BETA PHOTO: View of the chimney looking NW.
A closer view of this fun chimney.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of this fun chimney.
Russell (7 yr old) in the chimney.
Russell (7 yr old) in the chimney.

Comments on Hideaway Chimney Add Comment
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By nolteboy
Jun 6, 2005

Protects very well, appearances notwithstanding. Once you get up inside the chimney itself, there are several crack systems to choose from. A little bit of everything for pro. At the top, go right and rap off the anchors for the route FLAKE.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2005

Did this route for the first time today. FANTASTIC. Looks intimidating from the ground but has a ton of good pro once you get higher in the chimney...you can place just about anything but a #4 Camalot was definitely helpful. I climbed right side in for the first half, then it really doesn't matter.
By JayJurkowitsch
From: Laramie,WY
Mar 26, 2007

The name for the formation came from Prof. John Walker in the 60's; he took his Preacher climbing after services and upon looking down his first rappell - an overhanging one no less- the man of god uttered ; "Holy Sh*t - I mean Saturday!!"
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 9, 2008

This really is a great route no matter how cool you are, er...I mean, how hard you climb.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 5, 2011

I'm told that some people consider this a 5.7, and if you're leading, with the rack getting in the way, it may feel that way. However, seconding or soloing makes it much easier, and also moves the crux to the top.
By jake marlow
From: laramie
Feb 24, 2012

This is a fun climb, AND it is the easiest way to get to the awesome rap down!