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Hidden Valley, VA Access....again



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By jesco
From East Lyme, CT
Aug 22, 2012
Hangdoggin Narcissus...until next time.

I start this topic every couple years and it inevitably goes nowhere but I thought I'd ask in case there have been any new developments.

I grew up in Abingdon and picked up climbing in College. On a trip home one summer I learned that a local had put up an insane amount of sport routes on amazing sandstone outside of town near Hidden Valley Lake. It was open to the public for a while until people started leaving trash and crap (literally) everywhere. At that point in time, the cliff was "closed" to the public.

Here's the issue, and its a sensitive one (i've been asked to take down posts about this before). The couple who developed the area and subsequently closed the cliff doesn't actually own the property on which the cliff lies (I pulled the property plats around the cliff). They own a small portion of land the access trail to the cliff crosses but the developed sport routes are actually well west of their property. Up until this point, it has been general knowledge by local climbers that they own the whole cliff. The Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries who manages the Hidden Valley Wildlife Management Area believes they own the cliff and are open to developing it for climbers however they need a property survey of the area to confirm which they don't have the money for (quoted a couple hundred thousand dollars which sounds wicked high).

I called the local access fund a while back and they were no help. They weren't willing to do any legwork to help solve the issue.

Local climbers have generally respected the closing and I have a lot of respect for the developers.......but how can you close a cliff that's on land you don't own even if you developed it? Its clear that the developers would like to keep this area to themselves, but the sport climbing here is unbelievable and the DGIF is open to letting climbers in. Sticky situation eh? Any local Access Fund or Southeastern Climber folks willing to take this on?


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By manoftheson
Jan 4, 2013

Glad to see someone else interested in this place. A good friend of mine used to climb at Hidden Valley before it was closed. He may have even had a rudimentary guide to the routes (I'll have to ask to confirm.) He said it was some of the best sport he had done. We went over there in 2008 to try to get some more information but kept hitting dead ends as well. I would love to see this place opened up if possible. It's a great location for sure. Surely there are some more people that know some information about this place.


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By Jacob Neathawk
From Boulder, CO
Jan 4, 2013

+1 for hidden valley access.

This is too big of a resource to be hoarded by one "landowner". I wonder if another approach trail could be worked out? I climbed here a decent amount when i lived in boone and thought it was about the best day tripable sport climbing available. I also wonder it was even climbers that trashed the place.


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By Jeff J Reynolds
From central, NEW JERSEY
Jan 4, 2013
me

Jesco-

A few thoughts that might help. I am not a lawyer so what folllows is only advice.

The reason that the survey has such a high price tag is the type of survey. An ALTA survey may be required. These can be involved and may require hours of research on property owners surrounding the park.

www.landsurveyors.com/resources/definition-of-an-alta-survey>>>

Second, if you still doubt the $100,000 pricetag, inquire with the parks department about who they services they might retain for a survey like this. These services would prabably be retained by an request for proposal (RFP). But you could ask for a prequalified land surveyors bid list.

Then you could call the likely land surveyors and ask for general price information. What thier estimate would be for such a exhaustive survey.

If you still felt motivated, perhaps start a non-profit foundation to raise the money for the survey.

www.irs.gov/Charities-&-Non-Profits/Private-Foundations

Crazier ideas have worked!


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