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Glitter Box Area
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Hidden Splendor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters, Marty Karabin
Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Nov 12, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Climbing hidden splendor

Description 

The climb is consistent the entire way up. There are the options for some mantel moves, crimping and cam placement in horizontal cracks between bolts.

Although Hidden Splendor is listed as a 5.8 in Karabin's Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon, I think that some (lots?) of holds have broken off - at least it looks that way and compared to other 5.8 climbs in the area like Three Amigos and Smokin' The Toad, this climb seemed a lot harder.

It's a great hidden location in Lower Devils with an interesting approach.


Location 

The approach to this climb is part of the fun. This climb is tucked into a gully just north of the Glitter Box area. Go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box (rap down east of Three Amigos or walk around) and follow the trail that heads north along the base of the crag. Just north around the Glitter Box area is a long face climb called Damsels in Distress (5.10b/c). From the base of Damsels in Distress, continue north hiking up the hill until you find a small ledge and small stove-pipe pinnacle. Go south on the ledge toward the pinnacle and scramble up a chimney on the right for about 30 or 40 feet. You will climb out of the chimney into a small open area. From here, squeeeeeze through a narrow slit in the south wall and you will pop out into a scree gully. Hidden Splendor is the north face climb directly in front of you with a tree at the base. There is another bolted climb to the far right (west) in the gully called Changes in Attitude (5.10b) which is to the right of a chimney.


Protection 

8 bolt face to a 2 shut rappel. Small cams can be used in horizontal cracks between bolts as needed.



Photos of Hidden Splendor Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching Hidden Splendor
Approaching Hidden Splendor
View looking south down Devils Canyon with the stove-pipe entrance to the chimney approach on the right.
BETA PHOTO: View looking south down Devils Canyon with the sto...
Near the top of Hidden Splendor
Near the top of Hidden Splendor
Comments on Hidden Splendor Add Comment
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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Thought this was harder than an 8 -- not moves, but pumpiness factor. Such a fun, hidden gem, though. Love the approach through the "cave."

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 14, 2011

Forget the name, but after Hidden Splendor you can toprope the face to the right off the HS anchors. Also about 5.9, very similar route/climbing, but a good bonus pitch plus pump.