This is the most dependable flow in the area and a good one. Misrepresented in David Black's Ice Climbing Utah book, this is an excellent climb.
Pitch 1- WI-3 Fat 30-40 vertical flow starting at the end of the canyon. Belay from slings at a tree 15 feet back from the ice. continue up snow (class II) for 200' to the base of pitch 2
Pitch 2- WI-2 climb a short, thin flow for 30-40 feet. Usually done unroped. Continue up snow (class II) for 100' to the base of pitch 3.
Pitch 3- WI-2 climb a short, thin flow for 40 feet. Usually done unroped.
Pitch 4 WI-4 The goods. This is what it is all about. Climb a thin flow for 35' to the inner-sanctum ledge, then climb another 50' to another ledge. Look ten feet up to a tree- that's your anchor. Climb up and around to sling anchor. The ice can be thin for the last 10 feet to the ledge. 60 M rope required.
Descend rap route.
Take highway 143 towards Brian Head. At approximately mile 9 there is a pullout on the right and a trail across the road heading East. There is a small sign just off of the highway (good luck seeing it). You're most likely to see the footbridge crossing the stream. Hike East for about fifteen minutes into the prominent canyon. The end of the canyon is the beginning of the climb.
Last pitch, Hidden Haven
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4
1st ice step, leading into the canyon
From: Belgrade, MT
Feb 13, 2008
Scott the FA should read - Steve Henry and Jason Kartchner. Steve led all but the first step and Jason belayed like a hero. Steve's original name for the climb was Skippy's Beret but that didn't stick.
Hidden Haven's last pitch is thin at the beginning of the year (WI4) but comes in fat as the season progresses (WI3). You can bypass the first pitch on years that it doesn't come in to access the ice above by climbing a crack left of the flow (5.8 or C1). I've climbed this route as late as April 20th. Not bad for S. Utah.
|By Kai Larson|
From: Sandy, Utah
Mar 7, 2014
One of the most aesthetic ice climbs I've ever done. Wonderful situation, climbing ice in a red rock slot canyon.