Hidden Crack  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Mike Fischesser, Zachary Lesch-Huie - 1999 Submitted By:  Coz Teplitz on Jun 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Up the scramble (somewhere between 3rd class to 5....

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2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A long, slightly meandering route that wanders up ledgy climbing to the left of the main East Face routes (Jim Dandy, Peek-a-boo, Skip to My Lou, etc.). The "hidden crack" is all of 20 feet long - the climbing is much more traditional Table Rock slab. It's good, with bolted anchors on every pitch (except the last due to some unknown choppers). The climbing is fun and can be used to escape some of the crowds. It's hard to find the start.

P1(100 ft, 5.7): From the tree on the right side of the narrow ledge (described below), head up and right, generally following lichen-free rock up the outside of the bulging buttress. After the "hidden crack", clip a few bolts that protect some slabby moves (crux) and then finish up and right at a two-bolt anchors. (Note: there are two sets of bolts up here; one is for Hidden Crack and the other is for Persistence of Vision (5.9), a route that climbs the left wall of the Peek-a-boo gully. Either set will work for this route.)

P2(60 ft, 5.5): Climb easier ground up to the right end of the large tree ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor down and right, slightly below the ledge. You can also use trees on the ledge.

P3(110 ft, 5.7): Locate a bolt under the right side of the big roof. Climb to the bolt, clip it, then move up and right on big, funky holds until established above the roof. Then, climb up and left past another bolt, eventually reaching a two-bolt anchor above the slab at a little ledge. (Note: from this anchor, one 60 m rope will get you to the tree ledge.)

P4 (100 ft, 5.7): From the anchor, move left and up through blocky ground, aiming for a corner/crack system that trends slightly right. Move up this a little, then move back left around the overlap, following the biggest holds and cleanest rock. Above, move up slabby ground, eventually trending right to the 3rd class terrain on the left end of Lightning Ledge.

Descent: Scramble up Lightning Ledge and trail to top, or go back to Lunch Ledge and rappel from two bolt anchor above P3 of Cave Route (also called "The Block"). This rappel requires two ropes or some nontrivial downclimbing.

Location 

Start is left of Peek-a-boo at a dirty, slightly blocky gully just right of Tall Climb to be Good On (look for the finger crack on that route). Scramble up blocks, trending slightly right, for 30-40 feet, until you get to a narrow ledge with a tree on its right end. The climb moves up and right from here.

Protection 

Gear to 2".