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Easily one of the best crack climbs at the Bald. It certainly has the most variety of them all. Climb past a couple of large flakes and into the chimney. Work your way up behind the huge flake (yes, on the inside-- it's not as tight as it looks). Continue up to a good stem at the top of the flake. Continue up the fantastic fist, hand, and finger crack to a belay in the notch. Descent: Walk off behind the huge flake that creates the chimney feature. It actuall comes out just uphill from the start. It is also possible to climb to the top on easier lesser quality face climbing, but you will need 2 ropes to get down.
Far left side of the slabs. Obvious right facing, right angling corner.
Standard rack up to a #4 camelot. A extra #4 might come in handy, though it's easy to just walk them as you climb if you don't have the extra gear.
Feb 13, 2008
It was Galen Howell who held the rope on the FFA back around 1988.
By Ryan Carlson
Apr 5, 2010
Did the route going outside the chimney instead of through it. Put a double sling at the pinch and went back out and went for it. Makes for an exciting mantle! It is asbeautiful climb as it looks!