Hey Mr. Vacquero
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Next route to the right of Hot Tamale and just right of a dihedral that splits the wall. HMV starts on an undercut belly of good stone. The opening is a pretty stout boulder problem. Start with the first stick clipped. Go from a right hand undercling to an inobvious left hand mono. Next up to a right hand 2 finger, then to a pretty good hold left and below the second draw. Clip here, then go right to a crappy hold right of the draw, then right again to a great hold. Get high feet and reach to good but far away pockets, passing the 3rd bolt on the way.
You get to a no hands rest at a ledge here and then launch into the second crux after clipping the next bolt. A good right hand and a questionable left foot on a detached flake get you to a dynamic move to a large finger bucket. You have to get your feet into this hold to clip the next bolt, so it feels a bit run out. The end is a delicate vertical dance past the last bolt. Super good route.
Middle of the Tamale Wall
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
"b/c" You gotta be kidding me, right Tom? Is it getting to crowded up there or something (gotta keep those Greenies away). If this is b/c now, it's time to call Bobcat 12a...you know it's just a matter of time anyway.
Time to go train some more so I'll be able to RP the warmups....See you next week, hopefully!
By Tom Rangitsch
Jul 5, 2011
Just trying to do my part in battling grade creep. Don't want the Iris to become another Tensleep.