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Hey Good Lookin' 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1994
Page Views: 3,643
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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thursday afternoon grunt...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hey Good Lookin' may be the best route of its grade in Clear Creek Canyon. The line fires through the left hand side of the roof system on the Wall of the 90s, straight through the obvious hand-jam crack that joins the roof in pale yellow stone. The climbing on Hey Good Lookin' starts on the sprawling ledge system below the main roof. Half a dozen clips and some good slabbin' takes you right up under the roof. Pull around on some 5.11 moves to get established on the left edge of the roof. Haul over the roof on jams, jugs, and layaways for a fabulous 5.11d crux on perfect stone. The climbing doesn't end yet! A slightly spooky traverse to more jugs leads to the finishing 50 feet of face climbing on good edges. Three stars by any measure for the great moves, great stone, continuity, and the chance to grab a 140 feet sport pitch.

Protection 

QDs only. This route is 140 feet long, with no mid-point rap station, so double ropes are mandatory. You are all set with 14 to 15 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 15, 2001

Missing hangers as of 6-11-01. One as you pull over the overhang (you could probably get a small piece here) and one of the anchor hangers missing. I don't understand this ethic, please help me understand it if you can?

Steve sgrigel@mines.edu
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 18, 2001

Missing bolts confirmed on 6/16/01. In addition. the first clip to Hot Stuff has also been removed. Please urge everyone to leave the fixed pro in place (Duh???). Perhaps saying this here is like preaching to the choir, however, the fixed anchors on these routes serve several purposes besides simply making a move safe for all of us gumbies. Besides simply protecting moves for climbers of diverse abilities, the entire system of clips is used to reduce the impact force of a fall, the systematic placing of bolts also provides a back up in case a bolt higher up should fail, in emergency situations the bolt can serve to get you off the cliff, some bolts are placed to direct the rope in such a way as to reduce interference with sharp edges, cracks, or corners. In no case of my awareness have bolts been placed without due consideration to several issues relating to climbing in general, the route in particular, and the prevailing ethic of the area. Most of know all of these things, but, the two routes mentioned here are but examples of minor vandalism that has occurred on many routes in the Front Range, and serves no evident purpose. Once again, if we all urge our friends to leave the gear alone our routes will endure for many others to enjoy. If questions about bolt placements arise, before stripping the bolt, talk to the FA team and see if they agree with removal - and if they do not, learn why not.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 21, 2001

7/18/2001: missing hangers replaced on both Hey Good Lookin' and Hot stuff. I also noted that several of the cold shut bolts on Hey Good Lookin' were switched for Metolius hangers. I assume that the cold shuts are being snatched for anchors elsewhere, and this probably an acceptable practice. There are two caveats worth considering. The first is simply to make sure that in switching bolts the replacement is snugged down tight with the clip left as solid as it can be. The second concern is that as anchors go, cold shuts are not really optimal. They are in use on several routes, but inspection of several routes on North Table Mountain will reveal that top-roping through cold shuts quickly erodes the anchor. Stainless steel Fixe or a comparable system is better and more resistant to use.
By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 27, 2001

Still only one hanger on the anchors as of 7/25. Great route, sustained 11c for the 3 bolts getting over the roof.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 27, 2001

On 7/18/2001 both hanger were present at the top of this pitch, so anything missing as of 7/25 must have been removed during this week. We should all spread the word that this is entirely unacceptable, whoever is responsible.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 18, 2001

My question is, if the route has the big roof and is so high that you need to rappel off with two ropes, how do you clean it?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 19, 2001

AC - If you mean back cleaning draws on rappell, I'd suggest just geting a partner to hold the rope from the ground when you are below the roof. He or she can help pull you into the face. There is a bit of swinging involved. Or just have the partner second the line cleaning draws and dragging the second rope.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Easy warmup for those pushing into the 10s: 1st 6-7 bolts and lead right to the next anchor gives a gentle 5.9.
By Tod Anderson
Aug 9, 2002

I added a second coldshut next to one of the protection bolts high on the route so that you can lower off with one 60m cord.
By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Sep 9, 2002

With all due respect to Leo, I don't agree with his assessment. There are only about five bolts up to the roof relative to its neighbor, Vixen, having ten. Although the climbing is not hard, it is spicy for "gentle 5.9". The rock is a bit dirty in this section and, hence, ups the scare factor. A fall before the first bolt would be very nasty. As stated above, the new lower anchor is not at the roof. You must traverse 15 to 20 feet horizontally to the Vixen anchor. This sets up a big pendulum for the second. I don't recommend this version for the budding 5.9 leader.
By Joe Collins
Mar 17, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The crux sequence through the roof is fairly inobvious, but the climbing is very cool. I only climbed to the first set of anchors: the section above to the 2nd set of anchors looks easy, though still pretty dirty and flaky...not sure if it would be worth the effort of hauling up a second rope.

One of the few routes we did at this crag that earns the grade.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 17, 2003

Joe - I have imagined that the opportunity for doing a long pitch with lots of exposure was far preferable to doing a difficult move and stopping. It's all a matter of perspective I suppose, but I liked to imagine that the cluster of long routes at the Wall of the 90s and on the Mission Wall offered good training for a day in the Park. Here you can get lots of mileage in a small space without ever amping up the difficulty to the point that one only had a few tries. For example, try linking 1000 ft in an afternoon, it's not that hard here.
By TBlom
Aug 27, 2004

Nice place to catch some air, not too hard to hang dog your way through. Hopefully I will redpoint it some day. Back cleaning was interesting but not impossible. I rapped and had my belayer pull me towards the wall to clean. Watch for sharp edges as you snap back and forth though.
By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a good climb, and I agree that it seems to be rated more appropriately than some others. It felt right on as an on-sight. I spent a lot of energy trying different ways to get established on the roof. Now that I know what to do, it may seem much easier, but I doubt it. The crux seemed above the roof - getting established in that crack - those felt quite hard to me. Oh, and unless you really want to do 40 more feet of 5.8, then just bail from the intermediate anchor.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Man, I don't really remember much of the beta under the roof, I just remember it was super fun. It looks like I rated it b/c after the onsight, but from the sounds of you guys it is solid d? I don't know, it doesn't matter really. What I did want to say is don't climb above the first anchors. 1. it sucks. 2. it is chossy as hell. 3. you have to tag a line or lower half way (which I did, in the rain). 4. did I mention it's chossy? That second portion of the route is not even that interesting of climbing the bottom is the biz, so stick to it. Have fun, really good route.
By Jessica Horn
From: June Lake, CA
Nov 22, 2008

When cleaning, rappelling down makes getting your draws from under the roof really, really hard. I hate to say it, but lowering down is probably the better way to go... good luck either way.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 23, 2008

Why would you hate to say that, Jessica? Lowering is the way to clean sport routes, and if the anchors are worn, they should be replaced. It's not the desert.

Good work!
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Nov 23, 2008

Precisely, it's top roping through the anchors that tends to get people's knickers in a knot.
By Rhonda
Jul 7, 2009

According to the guidebook, Hey Good Lookin' is located to the right of the two warm-up 10s. I got on it yesterday thinking that I was actually on the route only to find that it was not even close to an 11d. After studying the guide a little more closely, looks like another line has been bolted to the left of Hey Good Lookin'. Hey Good Lookin' is wet as of yesterday. Water dripping down the black face. Looks like a good route. Can't wait to get back and get on the RIGHT route.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Rhonda - the route you were on is Pretty Woman (in the database here). When the bottom of Hey Good Lookin' is wet you can climb the 1st part of Pretty Woman into Hey Good Lookin' (Pretty Good Lookin'???).
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It's also worth noting that climbing Pretty Woman can be used to access the lower anchor on Hey Good Lookin'... that combined with a well-protected crux means this is a great climb to try if hard 5.11 is your limit!
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

RECIPE FOR AN EASY CLEAN: The good ol' Tonsai Trick.

There are, what?, three-ish bolts under the crux roof. Skip the first one, brave leader! It's overkill anyways, and unless you're dwarf short you can, without too much difficulty, clip an extend-O-draw (to reduce drag) on the second. Or else back clean once you've clipped that second bolt.

Now cleaning on lower becomes a snap as you can easily reach down, under the roof, and unclip both the third and the second draw from the jug. Easy piece-y. Just make sure you're clipped into the up rope (people know to do this, right? Apparently not. Saw team gaper yesterday thrutching around in the air because the leader didn't know to clip back into the rope for cleaning steeps). Also, brace a bit for the pendulum swing on the big let go. (Extra credit hint: This "trick" doesn't JUST work on Hey Good Lookin'....)

As for the grade: Probably 'd' onsight. Wicked weird sequence. But once you suss the beta, it's more like a mid-11, grunt machine.