Heterohedral 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | B. Hanson, A. Bradley, D. Hare, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on May 19, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...
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Description This is a moderately interesting alternative to the Bihedral.
Scramble up to the same ledge where Bihedral starts.
Find a right-facing dihedral system about 100 feet left of the obvious, left-facing dihedral of Bihedral and just right of Edge of Reality.
P1. Angle up & right along this dihedral system. It can be moist with recent rains. Pass a small roof on its right and find a ledge. Belay.
P2. Angle up and right along a small, right-facing dihedral to face climbing to below a crack. Fire up a crack in black-lichen covered rock with slightly tricky jams and top out just left of the finish of Bihedral.
Protection Standard rack to a #4 Friend.
Near the bottom of the climb.
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On the upper crack.
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.9-
| Not a bad route, but a little lichen at the botton and a little choss at the top. As well, it stays wet after a rain for quite some time, as the crack/overlap leaks water.
Can be done in 1 long pitch with a 70m and probably with a 60m at well. I'd take an extra #3 Camalot (3.5" piece) to avoid much swing potential or walking gear too much, and a lot of longer slings and do it in just 1 pitch. |
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