This is the crack/chimney system that begins in a gully just up and left of the belay for the regular Hessie Chimney. There may or may not be a short pillar of ice at the start. It's a pretty decent option if the regular route is occupied, as it was when Hamish Gowans and I climbed this on March 11. Likely done before, although we cleaned out a fair amount of loose rock.
Climb about 40 feet up the gully from the belay below Hessie chimney (snow or easy mixed), overcome the 10-foot fragile pillar (or rock overhang), and follow the groove/chimney to a poor ledge after about 50 feet of steep climbing. Belay here if you're short on gear or continue angling up and left on easy ground to another cool rock bulge and the big tree ledge. Fun dry tooling and chimney moves, with a smattering of ice and some thank-god turf shots.
Rap from tree at normal belay of first pitch of Hessie Chimney (2 ropes).
Wires and cams, small set of pins. Emphasize finger to hand-size cams.
BETA PHOTO: Route line. The black water streak is the normal H...
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2007
Im guessing that Helgi Christensen & I made the first ascent of this. We climbed it maybe ten years ago, circa 1997 (?). I'd have to look thru my old slides to find a date, because my date memory isn't all that great. Also I climbed another moderate line maybe 50 - 100m further left with Andy Donson about the same era, say M4.