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Upper Washbowl Cliff
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(Fritz) Wiesner Route 
Butterflies are Free 
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Hesitation 
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Weekend Warrior 

Hesitation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Turner
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 2,372
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Sep 9, 2008
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the p2 5.7 PG traverse to the overhanging lip then...

Description 

1 Climb 4" crack to overhang, up to crack and to belay stepping right consisting of pitons. 5.8

2 Climb up to roof and clip 3 pitons while traversing under the roof with mild runout. At the third piton turn the roof, and climb up the ramp with basically no gear for 25' to a single piton and gear belay. 5.7 PG 5.5 R Note the first piton is at the apex corner the second in the middle, and the third is below a ramp where you go straight up!!

3 Climb up broken crack system to a ledge below a sick looking left facing corner. 5.5

4 Climb the corner to the top! This pitch is nice!! ( :

I give this climb 4 stars for the nice first pitch, and the exciting traverse, and quality 4th pitch. Its a nice climb with magnificant views of chapel pond, and slab, and ADK in general.


Location 

When you arrive at upper washbowl take a left until you get to a corner with a small cliff below. The Base is a scramble up the small cliff to a nice area with a 4" crack and a overhang.


Protection 

I used a 4.5" cam and a standard rack.



Photos of Hesitation Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch One
BETA PHOTO: Pitch One
Pitch 4 (5.6)
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4 (5.6)
Coming up Pitch One
Coming up Pitch One
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By Greg Kuchyt
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

5.8 G, 5.5 R
Second should probably be solid, big swing potential on P2.

Also, on P2 you can (and probably should) back up the third piton with a micro cam. Anyone can fall, and do you really want to run it out on to an old pin?

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

A great climb despite the lacking rock quality, the first pitch is an okay off with up to the scary belay station (suggest re slinging the chock stone and clocking in some community service)the crux on p2 is very insecure and well protected around the corner but long runners are a must, once you pull up on the slab on p2 its a cake walk (dont bother looking for pro its not there). Then p3 is simply an approach pitch to the wonderful surprisingly pleasant off with into finger inside corner on p4. Topping out on this climb feels like a real accomplishment and was a great day goal. Id suggest the rap tree climbers left about 100 yards maby, then you rap over mastercharge.

By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Jaysen,
From my memory, you can equalize some good gear in a horizontal down and left of the fixed gear at the top of the first pitch. I remember it being a little creative, but confidence inspiring.

Also, see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent information. The issues with the Partition/Mastercharge rappel are really not necessary given the ability to walk off or the climber's right rappel, especially in light of recent events.

By kenr
Jul 19, 2012

My partner made a gear anchor at the top of P1, to the left of the fixed anchor. My memory is that he placed most of the gear in obvious vertical crack. Seemed like setting the anchor left of the fixed anchor was better positioned for belaying the climbing both for P1 and for P2.

By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Jul 29, 2013

It is true there is a decent horizontal just down and left of the ratty slings in the vertical crack under the roof. I got a tricam and #1 camalot in there to supplement the less inspiring gear above. Also, in addition to the microcam you can get at the end of the traverse on pitch 2, you can get a .75 in a horizontal just a foot or so further right.

I note in the old Mellor guidebook Pitch 1 is described as ending much lower and to the right (piton belay). I watched a pair of climbers with binoculras on this and thought they were off route until I read Mellor's pitch description. Seems this would indeed make Pitch 2 more interesting and different. I've always used the belay under the roofs so I can't say if it is better, worse or neither.