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Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Buttress Chimney 
Drain Pipe, The 
First Pitch 
Gates of Delirium 
Golden Oldies 
Hesitation Direct 
Iron Cross 
Last of the Mohicans 
New Generation 
Quiet Desperation 
Race With The Devil 
Red Rain 
Stretch, The 
Sundance Arete 
Voodoo Child 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Callis, July, 1967.
Page Views: 1,329
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 24, 2006
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Hesitation - 2nd pitch.


This route gives an introduction to the steep, exposed climbing of the Sunshine Face, at an easier grade than the routes to its left. Climb the initial section of Buttress Chimney, then move up and left along a 5.7 ramp (often covered with pine needles) to belay bolts. The crux pitch follows thin face climbing on great rock, up and left, then back right, finishing at Paisano Ledge.


Bolts plus a light rack (include a few pieces to 3 inches for the belay at the top)

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By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 2, 2008

CLASSIC, repeated mannnny times for fun...

By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The opening moves of pitch one are the hardest moves on the climb!

By Todd Cook
From: Hawthorne, CA
Sep 8, 2012

There are several bolts on this climb, some you'll want short quickdraws, others, alpine draws with the sling extended to reduce rope drag via the zig zag line. There's also at least two chicken heads that can be slung. Note: you can't drop down the original route line even with a 70; 3 rappels to the left of the climb take you down to the base, southwest of where you started.

By Tradoholic
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Solid fun, well-bolted.