Hesitation  5.7 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  Unknon Submitted By:  Nathan Fisher on Aug 12, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

From the midway belay station on the easy dihedral pitch of Beckey's Wall is a vertical flake system. This is the start of Hesitation. It continues up this initially well-protected flake system angling left a bit into grooves that don't protect too well (brass nuts). A fall here would probably deck, but keep moving into another crack system that ends in nice diagonalling (almost horizontal) hand crack. Cams or hexes are especially important here. Work through this fun sequence into progressively worse rock, and fight your way through the trees/bushes. About miodway through the vegetation, a vertical crack saves you from the trees; however, the rock quality maintains its poor nature. As this crack progresses, it widens and flares into a nast offwidth. #2's and larger are imperative to protect safely here. The chains are within reach soon. Beware of loose rock, dead tree branches on the upper face. I almost took out my partner when my left handhold (1' X 2' rock), came hurtling off. Bring your helmets.

Protection 

A 2-bolt anchor on top with some new chains. Bring a couple of brass, and a wide selection of gear, mainly #2 Camalots and larger. Some runners for drag would help in your upward movement.