This amazing line is the first right of Friday the 13th on the Nautilus. The first pitch climbs fingerlocks, thin hands and lay-aways to a two bolt anchor at about 50 feet. The second pitch climbs the burly mostly fist crack to a fixed anchor at a horizontal crack below a capping roof. One can rappel here if the anchor is deemed suitable, move left to Friday the 13th or move right to Middle Parallel Space. The pitches can easily be combined (recommended) to entertain full enjoyment.
A standard rack including small camming devices (#1 to #2 Friends) for the fist pitch and larger camming devices for the upper pitch (up to #4 Camalot). At least double cams in the #1 to #3 Camalot sizes are/were useful in the sustained upper crack for those near their limit, myself included.
John Langston of Cheyenne/Laramie, WY on the first...
Resting a little off the flake, mid crux.
Guy H. onsights P1.
|By Brian Milhaupt|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2002
The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1.
|By Bob Rotert|
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.
If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack.
Sep 15, 2004
The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts?
Apr 15, 2005
I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.
Jun 10, 2006
Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Pitch 2 is a classic, must-do at the grade. Well worth the technical first half.
May 20, 2007
The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2007
Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...
|By Brian Adzima|
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Sep 30, 2007
So, why are there nice anchors 1/2 way up the pitch and tat at the end?
|By Greg Smith|
From: Canon City, CO
Apr 1, 2008
The first ascent was done by Chick Holtkamp.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 30, 2008
First Ascent was Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Chick led it first.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me.
|By Steve Matous|
Oct 12, 2010
Doug Cairns and I did what we thought to be the FA summer of 1975, named for the song of the same name done by Hot Tuna in the '70s.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011
I found second pitch best protectable with #3 cams as I leapfrogged my only 3 for a good half of it. Climbing is never the less mostly #2 hands.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 3, 2012
Like a harder version of Outer Limits in Yosemite.