This amazing line is the first right of Friday the 13th on the Nautilus. The first pitch climbs fingerlocks, thin hands and lay-aways to a two bolt anchor at about 50 feet. The second pitch climbs the burly mostly fist crack to a fixed anchor at a horizontal crack below a capping roof. One can rappel here if the anchor is deemed suitable, move left to Friday the 13th or move right to Middle Parallel Space. The pitches can easily be combined (recommended) to entertain full enjoyment.
A standard rack including small camming devices (#1 to #2 Friends) for the fist pitch and larger camming devices for the upper pitch (up to #4 Camalot). At least double cams in the #1 to #3 Camalot sizes are/were useful in the sustained upper crack for those near their limit, myself included.
The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1.
By Bob Rotert Jul 26, 2004 rating: 5.11-6c22VIII+22E3 5c
Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.
If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack.
Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well.
This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me.