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Nautilus
Routes Sorted
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A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
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Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
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Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Joke 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
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MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
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October Light 
Old Eyeful 
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Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
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Soak'em In Cider 
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TTL 
TTR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Hesitation Blues 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1975?
Page Views: 2,989
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Starting into the crux.

Description 

This amazing line is the first right of Friday the 13th on the Nautilus. The first pitch climbs fingerlocks, thin hands and lay-aways to a two bolt anchor at about 50 feet. The second pitch climbs the burly mostly fist crack to a fixed anchor at a horizontal crack below a capping roof. One can rappel here if the anchor is deemed suitable, move left to Friday the 13th or move right to Middle Parallel Space. The pitches can easily be combined (recommended) to entertain full enjoyment.


Protection 

A standard rack including small camming devices (#1 to #2 Friends) for the fist pitch and larger camming devices for the upper pitch (up to #4 Camalot). At least double cams in the #1 to #3 Camalot sizes are/were useful in the sustained upper crack for those near their limit, myself included.



Photos of Hesitation Blues Slideshow Add Photo
John Langston of Cheyenne/Laramie, WY on the first pitch of Hesitation Blues, March 2001. Photographed by Stacy Bender.
John Langston of Cheyenne/Laramie, WY on the first...
Resting a little off the flake, mid crux.
Resting a little off the flake, mid crux.
Guy H. onsights P1.
Guy H. onsights P1.
Comments on Hesitation Blues Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2002

The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1.

By Bob Rotert
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.

If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack.

By willem
Sep 15, 2004

The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts?

By nolteboy
Apr 15, 2005

I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.

By TimBoLiyah
Jun 10, 2006

Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well.

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Pitch 2 is a classic, must-do at the grade. Well worth the technical first half.

By abc
May 20, 2007

The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly.

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2007

Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Sep 30, 2007

So, why are there nice anchors 1/2 way up the pitch and tat at the end?

By Greg Smith
From: Canon City, CO
Apr 1, 2008

The first ascent was done by Chick Holtkamp.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 30, 2008

First Ascent was Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Chick led it first.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me.

By Steve Matous
Oct 12, 2010

Doug Cairns and I did what we thought to be the FA summer of 1975, named for the song of the same name done by Hot Tuna in the '70s.

By doze
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011

I found second pitch best protectable with #3 cams as I leapfrogged my only 3 for a good half of it. Climbing is never the less mostly #2 hands.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 3, 2012

Like a harder version of Outer Limits in Yosemite.