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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Fluke TR 
Flying Fish S 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Herringbone Direct  

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cichon
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: mike c on Dec 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Getting rolling into the action.

Description 

This has tricky moves about a 3rd of the way up...it is short but really fierce and sort of bouldery (reachy)...the gear is poor and only body weight friendly, but the climbing is super fun. It was originally led ground up aid, mixed-free (5.10, A3+).

Location 

This is just right of Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) and left of Herringbone, just left of the Primary Chimney.

Protection 

Marginal gear leads to a bolted anchor.


Comments on Herringbone Direct Add Comment
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By mike c
From: nederland
Feb 20, 2012

Placing gear and pulling these moves have been my most intense challenge at this little but stacked quarry. I've struggled through quite a few gripping attemps on this ultra short, thin seam. After maybe ten or so tries I finally led this route clean. Unfortunately, I only managed a pinkpoint of it. Fortunately, I love a good challenge and am looking forward to a traditional redpoint. Of course, I think it's a little harder placing the gear on lead, but I think I can do it one piece at a time....
By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R

The crux is short and pretty powerful. Luckily it's low to the ground.... I think this route is a good option for the free solo. Just a thought. Fun route.
thanks
By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R