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This has tricky moves about a 3rd of the way up...it is short but really fierce and sort of bouldery (reachy)...the gear is poor and only body weight friendly, but the climbing is super fun. It was originally led ground up aid, mixed-free (5.10, A3+).
This is just right of Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) and left of Herringbone, just left of the Primary Chimney.
Marginal gear leads to a bolted anchor.
|Comments on Herringbone Direct
|By mike c|
Feb 20, 2012
Placing gear and pulling these moves have been my most intense challenge at this little but stacked quarry. I've struggled through quite a few gripping attemps on this ultra short, thin seam. After maybe ten or so tries I finally led this route clean. Unfortunately, I only managed a pinkpoint of it. Fortunately, I love a good challenge and am looking forward to a traditional redpoint. Of course, I think it's a little harder placing the gear on lead, but I think I can do it one piece at a time....
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b R
The crux is short and pretty powerful. Luckily it's low to the ground.... I think this route is a good option for the free solo. Just a thought. Fun route.