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3. High Wall Right
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Heroine Hypnosis 
Osprey 

Heroine Hypnosis 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
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Page Views: 1,245
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Apr 29, 2009
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Ben Annibali leading up the second pitch of Heroin...
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Description 

Pitch 1: Pass a low roof on the left and climb a flake 45 feet to belay below a small roof to the left of, and slightly higher than, the long, larger rook of Blue Sparks from Hell (5.10).

Pitch 2: Move left around this small overhang, then right around the ends of tow other roofs to a large corner system with a large, grassy ledge and rappel rings.

Pitch 3: Climb the corner (actually the right face of the large corner). Your see a tree and a grungy corner above you. Don't go here. Weave to the left and finish moving left under the large roof that forms the finale of Osprey. Use the same belay tree as Osprey.


Location 

Hike the Blue Trail from Cold Air Cave and arrive at the Practice Face. Turn left and follow the cliff for about 100-150 yards. The climbs Osprey and Heroine Hypnosis are just after the point where you make a 4th class scramble up to a high point along the path.

Osprey is on the left, HH is on the right.


Protection 

Rap station on p2. No fixed gear but easy to protect.



Photos of Heroine Hypnosis Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Laudermilch l;eading p1 of Heroine Hypnosis.
Josh Laudermilch l;eading p1 of Heroine ...
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By Larry S
Oct 12, 2011

Currently there are 2 fixed pitons with slings and rings at the top of Pitch 1. These are easily backed up with gear. We did not find a fixed anchor at the top of pitch 2, which was a little bit grungy. The pitch 3 traverse over to Osprey was easy but a bit of a safari. There is a nice newish bolted anchor at the top of Osprey, rap with 2 ropes to reach the ground.

By Marnix
From: New York, NY
Sep 15, 2013

As of 9/15/2013 one of the fixed pins at the top of p1 is totally loose and useless; there is plenty of good gear to back it up, just don't expect to rap comfortably from there.