Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Hermosa
Titleist NXT Tour Golf Ball - 12 Pack

$41.99 23% off

$31.99

at AlsSports

10    more...
Black Diamond - Ozone Harness

$99.95 20% off

$79.96

at GearX

29    more...
Safe Tech All-Around Harness - XL

$88.95 20% off

$71.16

at CampSaver

1    more...
Lowa Weisshorn GTX Boot - Men's

$459.95 20% off

$367.94

at E-OMC

8    more...
Outdoor Research Crocodiles Gaiter - Men's

$74.95 40% off

$44.97

at Backcountry

3    more...
Scarpa Force Climbing Shoe - Women's

$128.95 25% off

$96.71

at Backcountry

41    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Hang Em' High 
Pinnacle, The 
West Coast Cliffs 

Hermosa 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 37.4289, -107.8369 Map
Page Views: 21,469. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 12, 2007

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


Hermosa...

Description 

Hermosa's West Coast seems scrappy at best when viewed from the road, but after the 20+ minute approach, standing under these cliffs, one can appreciate the vertical, overhanging starts and dynamic, varied climbing to this 80 foot cliff band 300 yards long. Most of the routes are traditional, but often have bolts as well. The largest roof routes in Animas Valley are located here as well as the most adventurous climbing one will find locally. There are a mix of aid routes turning the 50 foot overhang of Khumbu's Cove to 5.7 bolted slabs. But this place has only a few routes for novices. From Jake's Gully a long traverse contouring around the ridge leads through the trees and scrub to the Pinnacle area. Offering many airy hard bolted routes, this spire can be seen from 550. Tim Kuss and Joel Schiavone and others are responsible for most of the climbs here. Further along around the corner, the Hang Em' High area has some nice strenuous crack routes as well...All three areas have great climbs on some great rock. Flashback to 1988... Having just arrived from discovering and then creating routes at Footsteps Rocks, The Promontory and Trinidad Head, California, Matthias Holladay asked local hardman Joel Schiavone where some good new route potential might be located. Joel then told him about the Pinnacle Area of Hermosa. This continued the development of said pinnacle and started the development of new routes at the Hang 'Em High and West Coast Areas.


Getting There 

Travel north on US Hwy 550 out of Durango. After passing through Hermosa (beer, gas, calzones) about 8 miles turn left on County Road 203 and then take a right on County Road 201. Take CR 201 up the winding hill. Past the 1st cattle grate you come to, park in the large gravel lot on the left (free car camping) and find trail to ridgeline. To do this from the parking area, access is before the grate on the left, find the gate and obvious USFS induced clearcut. Flat thru the scrub, wind around trees until the base of the ridge is reached, small switchbacks incline up to a level trail for a nice walk on the crest of the moraine. This stroll takes one to the last steep bit up to a big Juniper on the right. Either contour right toward the Khumbu Gully/Cove (optional route to base with lots of boulder hopping/scrambling) or switchback up indistinct trail left through the scrub, surmount small outcrop, scramble between and over crystalline boulders, more switchbacks to the base of the lengthy cliff band with a proud conifer and dihedral of the Bowsprit Area. You will likely be the only party there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hermosa:
Brass Sextant   5.6 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Edge of the World Area
Manta Ray Ride   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Crystal Aretes
Keelhauled   5.7     Trad   West Coast Cliffs : Kipper Cove
Pale Young Eels   5.7 R     Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Kipper Cove
Julia's Harbour Lights   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Crystal Aretes
Vala's Close Reach   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Jake's Gully
Unrelenting Undertow   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Bowsprit Area
Iridescent Hummingbird   5.7 A2     Aid, 1 pitch, 110 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Khumbu's Cove
My Bouyant Craft   5.7+     TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Crystal Aretes
Kipper Snacks   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Kipper Cove
Tradewind   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Edge of the World Area
Shark's Fin   5.8 A3-     Aid, 1 pitch, 90 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Khumbu's Cove
Ebb Tide Arete   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Jake's Gully
Grinning Hostess   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Bowsprit Area
The Incessant Weltering Splash   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Khumbu's Cove
Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum   5.10b     Trad   West Coast Cliffs : Jake's Gully
Captain Joel   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Kipper Cove
Julia's Jubilee   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Jake's Gully
Wendy's Crack   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Edge of the World Area
Poseidon's Adventure   5.11a     TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   West Coast Cliffs : Edge of the World Area
Browse More Classics in Hermosa

Featured Route For Hermosa
Dominic Schiavone enjoying the jugs....

Ebb Tide Arete 5.8+  CO : Durango : ... : Jake's Gully
Begin in prominent, V slot roof, move L on to arete to top anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on Hermosa Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 15, 2007

What type of rock is at Hermosa?

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 27, 2007

The first few moves of many routes begin with a shale band which although chossy, provides good holds to reach the overhanging start of a solid sandstone conglomerate. There are crystalline cracks, clean nubbins on high friction orange/black streaked faces, and many horizontal fissures of oval pockets.