Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident
5.10 C1 PG13
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 85 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 17, 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: Hermit's Hovel Tower. The route Mystery Incident ...
This is the obvious crack on the north face of the tower. At the bottom of the route is a bolt in a big block that pulled out from a roof about 30 feet above the ground. I don't know what happened here, but there was no sign of ascent above where that block pulled out, and it looks like whatever happened here during a previous attempt went very, very bad. Climb up some scary loose sections passed a bolt (placed by the previous attempt) without a hanger and continue up the widening crack until you chimney through the tower near the top to reach a two bolt anchor at the summit. There is also a small summit register just above the anchor hidden in a small alcove under some rocks. Most of the route I climbed free, I used two points of aid at the steepest part of the offwidth bulge. The route will go free at 5.10+ or easy 5.11.
When you reach the parking area for the Deadmans Spires, look north and you will see a group of three towers. Hermit's Hovel is the center and tallest of the three. The route climbs the North face of the tower, which is opposite the parking area. For more clarification. If you are looking at Resurrection/Tibia tower, these are the three towers to the right.
Two sets of cams including larger offwidth sizes. A set of stoppers.
|Photos of Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident Slideshow
Ben on the first ascent of Hermits Hovel Tower- My...
Maura on the first ascent of Hermits Hovel Tower- ...
Maura topping out on the first ascent of Hermit's ...
BETA PHOTO: This is the group of three smaller towers to the E...
The blocks with bolt that are lying on the ground ...