Hermit Rock Rock Climbing
Crazy weather we're having--a brief April snow sho...
Situated on the north side of East Camino Cielo, directly across the road and downhill from Crag Full of Dynamite, lies Hermit Rock. Barely visible from the road, this north-facing rock hosts a handful of moderate routes up to 130 feet in length on a coarse sandstone conglomerate. Shaded, yet hot & buggy in the summertime, and can also be freezing and covered in snow during the winter. The rock can be solid in places, but also chossy and lichen-covered in the less traveled areas. The routes are mostly bolt-protected, and bolts appear to have been placed on the lead. Don't expect sport clip-ups. There are bolts just where you need them, and not any extras. A small rack of finger-hand size cams/nuts can help provide some additional security on many of the routes. No bolted top anchors exist, so bring some cord/webbing to tie off trees on the summit. Some of the classics here include Wind Beneath Her Wings (5.7), Battle of the Bulge (5.10+) and Chunky Monkey (5.11).
Approximately 6 miles east on Camino Cielo from the junction at Gibraltar Road. Approach the base from either gully to the east or west side of the summit. 5 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Santa Barbara area.
Weather station 3.2 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Hermit Rock
Battle of the Bulge 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Hermit Rock
Starting at the small cave on the north face, climb up on juggy 5.8/5.9 terrain passing the first bolt at about 25 feet. Above this, the crux bulge awaits. Clip a second bolt and pull some awkward and strenuous moves on small holds over the overhang. Feels much harder than 5.10, and it appears that some rock may have broken here. Sustained thin climbing gets you through the next two bolts and to the base of the "4th class trough". Follow this dirty trough up and left and pull the final summ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
The top of Hermit Rock as seen from Camino Cielo/C...
By Richard Shore
Mar 18, 2011
All of the lead bolts on this crag look like they have been updated in the past few years. Confidence inspiring shiny hardware.