The southern end of the west face of Antelope Mountain holds untold potential for high quality limestone climbing. At the base of the same sub canyon that the Marjumhorn resides, you will find the old hermits cave. You will also find the most protected spot in the canyon to hide from those brutal west desert winds. The entrance to this canyon makes the most logical campground, and with that comes some route development that here we will call "The Campsite Area." There are maybe a dozen sport routes surrounding the camping area that are all in the 50 foot range, most easily top-rope-able. On the Lower West face proper, maybe a 5 minute walk up east of the campsite there are some routes that grant access to the upper west face. This area has some major potential, with short approaches.
Getting There
This area is the last on the right hand (north) side as you drive west through Marjum canyon. Good camping and climbing right at the mouth of this northern sub-canyon.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hermit Canyon:
On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
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