Hermaphrodite Flake 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Naylor, Mary Olsen and Earl Olsen, July 1965 |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 |
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Steeper than it looks!
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Description A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.
P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.
P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.
P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.
P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.
Protection Normal rack, lots of quickdraws.
Location See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome
View up into the flake
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View down from inside the flake. Fun moves.
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Alanna laybacking up the Hermaphrodite Flake.
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| Comments on Hermaphrodite Flake |
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By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006
| "Hermaphrodite Flake" actually ends on top of the flake. From there climb either "Eunuch" or the newer thing with all the bolts. |
By Blitzo
Sep 27, 2006
| The bolted thing is called "Boltway" 5.8 or 5.10a. For more information get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. |
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 27, 2007
| P2: You can climb the left side, right side, or up through the flake. Called Hermaphrodite flake because it goes both ways.
The Boltway (5.8)
P3: (5.7) several bolts very shady, one is halfway out. The climbing is fairly secure and the bolts are pretty close by Tuolumne standards. Rap rings at the belay here.
P4: (5.8) The crux is the first two bolts from the three bolt belay, then an easy crack and several variations lead to the top. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 18, 2007
| For some stellar, heady moves, definitely go right and lie it back all the way--you'll get 5.10 on exposure!
Also, The Boltway is an excellent way to finish up the climbing. Very safely bolted by Tuolumne standards. |
By rex parker
From: mammoth lakes c.a
Jun 10, 2010
| so if you do just hermapadite flake as the two pitches . from the belay/ rappel station above the flake. two sixty meter ropes gets you straight down right to the terrace were you can walk down from |
By David M.H.
From: los Angeles, ca
Jul 11, 2011
| You can actually use one 60m to get down from the top of the flake. With a 70m you can skip that anchor midway and right of the flake and go straight down the flake to a slightly hidden set of chains about 20ft below the bottom of the flake. I think a 60m might make it if it stretches enough - but I can guarantee a 70m works. Then next rappel gets you to the ground. |
By Josh Cameron
Aug 20, 2011
| If you lead the Flake and the first pitch of the Boltway, you can rap off and avoid the walk-off. |
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