|Stately Pleasure Dome
A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.
P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.
P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.
P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.
P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.
Normal rack, lots of quickdraws.
See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome
View up into the flake
Steeper than it looks!
View down from inside the flake. Fun moves.
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
Sep 13, 2006
"Hermaphrodite Flake" actually ends on top of the flake. From there climb either "Eunuch" or the newer thing with all the bolts.
Sep 27, 2006
The bolted thing is called "Boltway" 5.8 or 5.10a. For more information get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
|By Jordan Ramey|
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 27, 2007
P2: You can climb the left side, right side, or up through the flake. Called Hermaphrodite flake because it goes both ways.
The Boltway (5.8)
P3: (5.7) several bolts very shady, one is halfway out. The climbing is fairly secure and the bolts are pretty close by Tuolumne standards. Rap rings at the belay here.
P4: (5.8) The crux is the first two bolts from the three bolt belay, then an easy crack and several variations lead to the top.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 18, 2007
For some stellar, heady moves, definitely go right and lie it back all the way--you'll get 5.10 on exposure!
Also, The Boltway is an excellent way to finish up the climbing. Very safely bolted by Tuolumne standards.
|By rex parker|
From: las vegas n.v
Jun 10, 2010
so if you do just hermapadite flake as the two pitches . from the belay/ rappel station above the flake. two sixty meter ropes gets you straight down right to the terrace were you can walk down from
|By David M.H.|
From: los Angeles, ca
Jul 11, 2011
You can actually use one 60m to get down from the top of the flake. With a 70m you can skip that anchor midway and right of the flake and go straight down the flake to a slightly hidden set of chains about 20ft below the bottom of the flake. I think a 60m might make it if it stretches enough - but I can guarantee a 70m works. Then next rappel gets you to the ground.
|By Josh Cameron|
Aug 20, 2011
If you lead the Flake and the first pitch of the Boltway, you can rap off and avoid the walk-off.
From: Reno, NV
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off.
Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt.
Fun slab climbing though.
|By Ed Henicle|
Jul 29, 2014
P1 has a 5.8 variation start (see Reid book). It follows the right facing corner up to a 2 bolt anchor/rap station. The pitch requires small gear (000, 00, 0, C3's) - I always feel like I'm going to peel, but have not taken the slide yet! You can then link up P2 of the flake and rap off - nice 2 pitch warm up or cool down...