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 ADVANCED
Lilly Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Osiris S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Tarantella S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Yakuza S 
Unsorted Routes:

Heresy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 2,704
Submitted By: American Dankster on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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The biggest jugs you will never fall off of.

Description 

Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof.

Location 

The obvious roof with fixed draws. 100ft or so past rocking chair.

Protection 

9 bolts, Anchors.


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By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012

Probably my favorite climb in two days at the Obed. The sloper crux down low is a fun little boulder problem and the jug fest roof is just good clean fun. Highly recommend this one.
By Travis Griggs
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This was the second .11 I ever redpointed, and it remains my favorite sport climb in the universe. The crux comes about half way up the vertical feace, with balancy crossover on funky feet. After that, it's easy climbing to the chimney for a long rest before launching out the roof. The first fixed draw in the roof can be clipped from the chimney, and the second and third clips straddle a mondo no-hands rest.

It's like climbing on a sandstone jungle gym. Highly recommended.