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The Fortress
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Unsorted Routes:

Hereiophobia 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, D. Merin, G. Hundal, EFR
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 1, 2011
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He saw it and said it had to be climbed. He showe...
Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The name means fear of deviation from the official doctrine. (sport being the doctrine at this wall) The first trad route at the Orifice Wall. Left leaning and overhanging chimney/offwidth to steep jug hauling. Looks like a nightmare but footholds on the face make it fun and worth doing if you like the wide stuff. It is a little runnout to the first cam but easy. At the top you move left and finish by clipping the last bolt of Flyer Starter.


Location 

Starts in the black stained chimney that is also the start of Eureka.


Protection 

Two bolts and Camalots 1-#3 2-#4s 2-#5s 1 or 2-#6s. We used one six above the first bolt to move higher and place a 4 and a 5 then pulled the 6 in order to use it higher thus avoiding carrying two #6s



Photos of Hereiophobia Slideshow Add Photo
Catalonian Crusher reaching for the fat cam.
Catalonian Crusher reaching for the fat cam.
Climber working his way up the route
Climber working his way up the route
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 1, 2011

This is a fun route and the first mixed line at the Orifice wall. Nice work Aleix on the first ascent!