Here We Go Again... Again. 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Contemplating the moves onto the blunt prow.
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Description More of the same excellent stone, reminiscent of the Gallery's "Bulge Wall", but with bigger features and more athletic movement. The crux invovles burly, precarious liebacking through a shallow dihedral feature. Improbable holds appear just where you need them to keep the movement continuous and engaging. Begin from the ledge, following great pockets up beautiful yellow & brown marble stone. Cop a quick shake at the break, then work strenuously through the bulge on generally huge holds. Nice pockets and edges connect active rests up the blunt prow, then follow a heavily featured slab to the anchor.
Location This is between ...Tuggernaughts & Earth Mama's..., beginning from the center of the ledge.
Protection 5 bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.
Resting below the intimidating crux bulge.
| Finishing up the cream slab. Photo © Ryan Day Tho...
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