Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
Begin Here Today Gone Tomorrow just left of the starts for Mr. Peery and Mrs. Hen. The 5.11 variation runs straight up, the standard line lines dodges left for a short distance. Either way converges on an airy step-over shortly before the anchors. While the 5.11 variation seems contrived, the step-over gives the route some interest.
The route described here is called "Toura Obscura" in the Haas and Schneider guidebook. However, in Rolofson's 1995 guide it is called "Here Today Gone Tomorrow". Does anyone know which is correct? In the new guide, "Here Today Gone Tomorrow" is described as two climbs to the right.
I believe the route being climbed in the photo is Toura Obscura. HTGT and ...Pink Stain share the crack on the right side of the photo. HTGT continues up the bolt line on the arete in the upper right of the photo, which actually trends further to the right than it appears in the photo. Pink Stain continues up the crack system to the double roof and over the second roof. Both Pink Stain and HTGT are 5.10ish and harder than Toura Obscura.
Can someone explain something to me? I climbed the route titled HTGT in the Haas guidebook, and it calls it a nine, or an 11 if you stick to the arÍte. Also the first bolt is 30 feet up, bring a cam, or clip a bolt for another nearby route. It is a total of 5 bolts. MP says 10... Also, I flashed Bullet the Brown Cloud and the Flying Carrs route, 11b and a respectively, and not only couldn't finish the 11 variation, but could not even find the 9 route! Left of the arÍte there is nothing, so in my opinion you have to do the 11 and stay true to the arÍte.
Am I on the wrong route, is the guidebook off, of did I just get beat on this thing. The line in the guidebook shows you going up to a detached arÍte about 30 feet up, no bolts til then. And if this is Toura Obscura, can this be fixed.
We climbed in from Mrs. Hen and used those two bolts to start. If you're going straight up the crack to the hand crack, you'd want a couple of pieces of gear. I thought the hand crack was harder than Blind Faith in Eldo. The humidity may have made it feel more difficult than it was, but it felt 10a to me. I tried going straight up the arete and couldn't manage it kept hanging trying to see what I was missing. Ended up climbing into the dihedral and back out to clip the bolts. Don't know if this is the way to do it, but it still felt harder than the grade. I think it had two cruxes of at least 10- each.