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Here and Gone 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Mike Raymond, Rich Thompson 1976
Page Views: 1,688
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Description 

I really enjoyed this climb. Challenging and sustained at a moderate level. There may be no 5.8 moves unless you do the direct start.

Here and Gone climbs the narrow face of the next buttress uphill from Yurt Monkey. Yurt Monkey is the buttress that is on the right side of an obvious smooth brown concave face.

If you don't mind bouldering up a bit on positive but small holds, do the direct start. You can get a Yellow Alien near the top of this short face to protect the last move to the edge. This start isn't that hard--probably only 5.8 max, but you could get hurt if you fell off. The alternative is to scramble up the gully on the left to the ledge.

Clip the bolt (only bolt on the climb) via a long reach, then step right onto the face. Climb up to a flared crack. There is good gear all the way up this crack which is climbed mostly via face holds and a few laybacks. It's quite steep at the top, but not too strenuous. There are some cool "plates" on the upper half of the face that make great holds and take gear.

Continue up the way runout low angle upper half of the buttress. There is one spot for a gold Camalot or thereabouts. The climbing is easy, but the rock is a bit suspect. At the flat summit there are 2 SMC bolts set back. You could belay here and then walk off the back, but instead, downclimb a bit right (easy) to the 2-bolt anchor of Samson and Dalieback. You can lower from here down the gully on the right with a 60m rope.


Protection 

Single set of cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (approximately 3/8" to 2.5"). Single set of nuts. Extra finger size cams might be useful. A few long slings, plus draws, of course.



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By Gary Sax
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree that this is a mellow 5.8 without the direct start. But I find the direct start to be quite hard, to me it feels more like 5.9.

By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good climb. Direct start is 5.9. Only bolt is easy to clip from ledge if you're 6'10" tall with a +4 ape index. Otherwise you get to dangle in ground fall range to clip. Easy but runout climbing to the anchors. Fun all around! The climb is quite a bit taller than it looks from the ground as the top tower is set back: I got into a nervous "did you see the middle mark go by?" conversation on this route. Use a 60m rope and you're good.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought it got a bit sketchy around the two horizontal bands up top.