Here and Gone  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Steve Grossman, Mike Raymond, Rich Thompson 1976 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Nov 28, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

I really enjoyed this climb. Challenging and sustained at a moderate level. There may be no 5.8 moves unless you do the direct start.

Here and Gone climbs the narrow face of the next buttress uphill from Yurt Monkey. Yurt Monkey is the buttress that is on the right side of an obvious smooth brown concave face.

If you don't mind bouldering up a bit on positive but small holds, do the direct start. You can get a Yellow Alien near the top of this short face to protect the last move to the edge. This start isn't that hard--probably only 5.8 max, but you could get hurt if you fell off. The alternative is to scramble up the gully on the left to the ledge.

Clip the bolt (only bolt on the climb) via a long reach, then step right onto the face. Climb up to a flared crack. There is good gear all the way up this crack which is climbed mostly via face holds and a few laybacks. It's quite steep at the top, but not too strenuous. There are some cool "plates" on the upper half of the face that make great holds and take gear.

Continue up the way runout low angle upper half of the buttress. There is one spot for a gold Camalot or thereabouts. The climbing is easy, but the rock is a bit suspect. At the flat summit there are 2 SMC bolts set back. You could belay here and then walk off the back, but instead, downclimb a bit right (easy) to the 2-bolt anchor of Samson and Dalieback. You can lower from here down the gully on the right with a 60m rope.

Protection 

Single set of cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (approximately 3/8" to 2.5"). Single set of nuts. Extra finger size cams might be useful. A few long slings, plus draws, of course.