Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Solar Collector/Gold Coast
Select Route:
Black Gold S 
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 
Brambly Downslide S 
Broken Chicken Wing  T 
Buddha Hole S 
Chester Fried Chicken T 
Chicken Boy S 
Decline of Western Civilization S 
Erik's First 5.6 T 
Ethics Police S 
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 
God's Own Stone S 
Golden Boy S 
Green Horn S 
Herd Mentality S 
Highway Turtle S 
Lucky Duck Soup S 
Mona Lisa Overdrive  S 
No Fluff S 
Norway On My Mind S 
On the Prowl S 
Perfect Pint, The T 
Rebar T 
Slow Jack T 
Smoothie Nut T 
Space Junk S 
Sunny the Boxer S 
Supafly S 
Super Pinch S 
True Love S 
Zone of Silence S 

Herd Mentality 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob McFall, 1999
Page Views: 589
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone. The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps. This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height. There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco. Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest. Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left. The crux hits with a vicious sloper. Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest. The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs. Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.

Location 

3rd bolted route left of the obvious dihedral, on the right end of the Solar Collector wall.

Protection 

8 Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor. the first bolt is very high, stick clip recommended.


Comments on Herd Mentality Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 19, 2008

As far as I could tell, the first enormous hueco was "on", and the other one was not "on". Anyway, that's how I climbed it, and the grade seemed right. I'm not sure this would be 12c if you got a sit-down rest in the second hole.

Also, this route stays dry when most of the other routes here (like blue-eyed honkey & psychopathy) are wet.
By JamesW
Dec 29, 2008

The 2nd hueco is not part of the route.