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Solar Collector/Gold Coast
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Herd Mentality 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob McFall, 1999
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
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Description 

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone. The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps. This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height. There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco. Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest. Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left. The crux hits with a vicious sloper. Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest. The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs. Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.


Location 

3rd bolted route left of the obvious dihedral, on the right end of the Solar Collector wall.


Protection 

8 Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor. the first bolt is very high, stick clip recommended.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 19, 2008

As far as I could tell, the first enormous hueco was "on", and the other one was not "on". Anyway, that's how I climbed it, and the grade seemed right. I'm not sure this would be 12c if you got a sit-down rest in the second hole.

Also, this route stays dry when most of the other routes here (like blue-eyed honkey & psychopathy) are wet.

By JamesW
Dec 29, 2008

The 2nd hueco is not part of the route.