Herd Mentality  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Rob McFall, 1999 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone. The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps. This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height. There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco. Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest. Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left. The crux hits with a vicious sloper. Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest. The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs. Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.

Location 

3rd bolted route left of the obvious dihedral, on the right end of the Solar Collector wall.

Protection 

8 Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor. the first bolt is very high, stick clip recommended.