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Hen's Nest Rock
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Select Route:
Close to the Edge (CLOSED) 
Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED) 
Lunatic Fringe 
Sultans of Stem (CLOSED) 

Hen's Nest Rock 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010

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Description 

Hen's Nest is a prominent chunk of rock in a big bend in the Red River between Middle Small Wall and Sky Bridge.

You'll probably never see another soul while at this rock.

You can scramble to or from the summit on the west side of the rock.


Getting There 

Park on the west side of the road about half a mile west of the Concrete Bridge (Eagle's Nest, Wall of Denial TH). Cross the river and hike straight up to the east face of the rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hen's Nest Rock:
Lunatic Fringe   5.8+ R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Sultans of Stem (CLOSED)   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Close to the Edge (CLOSED)   5.10a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED)   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Hen's Nest Rock

Featured Route For Hen's Nest Rock

Lunatic Fringe 5.8+ R  KY : Red River Gorge : Hen's Nest Rock
Locate a splitter hand crack a few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good.Climb the crack until it fades and then launch out onto the spookily chalkless face. Angle up and right to a ledge. Traverse right to bolt anchors over the chopped sport route and belay....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY


Comments on Hen's Nest Rock Add Comment
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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 10, 2011

You can also park on the opposite side of the bridge (south side). Park in the dirt pull off. Hike across the road and down to the river. The river should be on your right side and you should be heading downstream as you start the approach. The trail follows a very faint path where the vegetation has been beat down. There is a lot of dead fall to step over and try to pick up the trail again. Just stay close to the bank, occasionally moving up hill to avoid a steep embankment until you can see the orange wall. You should see this wall right before you pass over a small talus field near a large boulder. This probably takes about 30 minutes of a moderate speed hiking. Once you can see the wall continue for a few more minutes until you reach a pine tree/hemlock grove. Turn left and head up hill bushwacking the easiest path to the wall. If the river starts to bend 180 to the left, you have gone too far. A topographic map helps with the approach.