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So very classic. Work up the first 25' of easy wide climbing to the small ledge beneath the striking, flared squeeze chimney. After another ~35' the chimney (5.8) will begin to pinch down to take fists, then cupped hands, and finally hands, all the while arching and steepening. This is a wild and pumpy crux section that does not let up until you turn the flake at the top of the crack. Pull over the small roof/step on good holds, hold down the pump and gun up a thin crack in a shallow dihedral for the chains.
Either rap with two ropes, or rap on a single rope to the anchors above Cristina (down and climber's left), and rap again from here to the ground. Run a couple of laps on the beginning lieback section of Cristina for a bonus.
300 feet further up the boulder field from the Doggie Deviations area.
Doubles to 5", 5-7" cams protect the chimney. Be sure to have small/finger pieces or nuts for the top.
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 11, 2007
Seems like this climb wandered off from the burly neighborhood of Arch Rock, where it surely must have been born and where it belongs.
Sep 30, 2009
Henly quit. Brian, Sally, John, and Bill all quit. So did I! Will you?
Next time I go, I'm bringing a #6 friend and a big bro.
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
'78 or '79, first pro when it narrowed to fisty, three rattle-y hexes end-wise then an 8 higher up. Popped off at the flared thin hands and took 25' or so fall because belayer was talking to a girl. Went back about a week later and did it lay-backing the thin hands part.