Henley Quits  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, July 1970 Submitted By:  Sirius on Apr 14, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

first piece 50' off the deck. fun!

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

So very classic. Work up the first 25' of easy wide climbing to the small ledge beneath the striking, flared squeeze chimney. After another ~35' the chimney (5.8) will begin to pinch down to take fists, then cupped hands, and finally hands, all the while arching and steepening. This is a wild and pumpy crux section that does not let up until you turn the flake at the top of the crack. Pull over the small roof/step on good holds, hold down the pump and gun up a thin crack in a shallow dihedral for the chains.
Either rap with two ropes, or rap on a single rope to the anchors above Cristina (down and climber's left), and rap again from here to the ground. Run a couple of laps on the beginning lieback section of Cristina for a bonus.

Location 

300 feet further up the boulder field from the Doggie Deviations area.

Protection 

Doubles to 5", 5-7" cams protect the chimney. Be sure to have small/finger pieces or nuts for the top.