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Henley Quits 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, July 1970
Page Views: 1,847
Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 14, 2007
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first piece 50' off the deck. fun!
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

So very classic. Work up the first 25' of easy wide climbing to the small ledge beneath the striking, flared squeeze chimney. After another ~35' the chimney (5.8) will begin to pinch down to take fists, then cupped hands, and finally hands, all the while arching and steepening. This is a wild and pumpy crux section that does not let up until you turn the flake at the top of the crack. Pull over the small roof/step on good holds, hold down the pump and gun up a thin crack in a shallow dihedral for the chains.
Either rap with two ropes, or rap on a single rope to the anchors above Cristina (down and climber's left), and rap again from here to the ground. Run a couple of laps on the beginning lieback section of Cristina for a bonus.


Location 

300 feet further up the boulder field from the Doggie Deviations area.


Protection 

Doubles to 5", 5-7" cams protect the chimney. Be sure to have small/finger pieces or nuts for the top.



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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 11, 2007

Seems like this climb wandered off from the burly neighborhood of Arch Rock, where it surely must have been born and where it belongs.

By Osprey
From: ...
Sep 30, 2009

Henly quit. Brian, Sally, John, and Bill all quit. So did I! Will you?
Next time I go, I'm bringing a #6 friend and a big bro.

By 54lamar
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13

'78 or '79, first pro when it narrowed to fisty, three rattle-y hexes end-wise then an 8 higher up. Popped off at the flared thin hands and took 25' or so fall because belayer was talking to a girl. Went back about a week later and did it lay-backing the thin hands part.